Berlin’s historic district isn’t as historic as it looks. It was almost totally destroyed at the end of WWII and restored completely in the late 20^th century. But that’s easy to forget wandering around the cobbled streets or along the pretty waterfront. One of the most visited areas in the city, Nikolaiviertel is an enchanting medieval fairy tale and looks particularly endearing on a snowy winter’s day.

• Don’t miss: St. Nicholas Church; the Ephraim Palace; Zillemuseum; Knaublauchhaus; riverside cafés and specialist shops.

Mitte might be Berlin’s business heart, but Charlottenburg’s the city’s grandest district by far. Magnificent Baroque Schloss Charlottenburg sets the elegant tone here, followed through in everything from exquisitely opulent 19^th century coffee houses to outrageously extravagant shopping on Kurfürstendamm. It’s also the area for Berlin’s glamorous Opera House and dozens of delightful little lanes and alleys hiding boutique hotels, designer ateliers and Michelin starred restaurants.

• Exclusive and expensive small hotels are a Charlottenburg trademark.
• Don’t miss: Schloss Charlottenburg and the gardens; Berlin Zoo in Tiergarten; the Berggruen Museum; The Story of Berlin; Funkturm radio tower.
• 3000ha Grunewald Forest is just to the west of Charlottenburg and fun for a day out with kids. Take the ferry to Lindwerder Island in summer or, in winter, go skiing on Müggelbergen Hill
• Go window shopping on Kurfürstendamm but save your pennies for Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe). It’s Berlin’s oldest and best loved department store, has the world’s biggest food hall and was the first place hundred of East Berliners headed for, right after The Wall fell on 9 November 1989.

One of the best known and loved districts in the city, Kreuzberg is Mitte’s cooler, younger and livelier next door neighbour. A brilliant area to stay in with older kids and teens, it’s packed with museums, markets and interesting events all year round.

• Good for mid-range hotels, aparthotels and family hostels.
• Don’t miss: the Jüdische Museum; Topography of Terror; Deutsche Technikmuseum; Markthalle Neun; Street Food Thursday; the Berlin Wall Museum.

Friedrichschain’s another bright, colourful and high-energy district to stay in close to the city centre. Once the powerhouse of East Berlin, it’s now where global music and media giants have European headquarters and a fun area to hang out, people watch and just wander around.

• Stay here for innovative design hotels on the banks of the Spree.
• Don’t miss: the East Side Gallery; Karl Marx Allee; Oberbaumbrücke; Volkspark Friedrichschain; Märchenbrunnen.

More like a village than a district of enormous Berlin, Neukölln has some of the city’s quaintest houses, prettiest squares, cutest shops and best markets. It’s also right on the edge of Tempelhof, the historic airfield now repurposed as a vast urban playground: go stroll, skateboard, skate or kitesurf down the runway on a Sunday, it’s a Berlin tradition.

• Don’t miss: Scholl Britz; the Rixdorf Quarter; Bethlehem Church on Richardplatz; the Turkish Market; Landwehr Canal.

Easy-going and always interesting, Prenzlauer Berg is one of the best districts for inexpensive hotels and a friendly, relaxed atmosphere close to the city centre. Reasonable rents and lots of green space mean this is a popular residential area for local families, so it’s packed with restaurants and cafés, kids events, interesting shops and community festivals.

• Good district for three and four star family hotels and holiday apartments.
• Close to Weissensee, one of Berlin’s loveliest lakeside beaches and a weekend favourite in warmer weather.

Visit Prater Garten, the city’s oldest and prettiest beer garden and a fun place to eat on warm summer evenings.