Family Traveller | Family holidays in Lisbon

Lisbon – Family holiday guide

From sky-high historic elevators to inflatable boat tours on the River Tagus, uncovering the dark secrets of the Age of Discoveries and nurturing a taste for custard tarts and colourful festivals, Lisbon steals little hearts instantly and usually turns out to be a lifelong passion. It may be one of the oldest and most romantic cities in Europe, but the Portuguese capital loves kids and has a great talent for unforgettable family holidays.

Why go on holiday to Lisbon?

Direct flights from the UK to Lisbon, year round, take less than three hours.

Lisbon is crisp and frosty for Christmas Markets and sunny with temperatures between 25 and 30˚ from May to September.

Atlantic beach resorts on the sunny Costa da Caparica are less than 30 minutes from Lisbon city centre.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and Torre de Belém are two of Lisbon’s most famous monuments and both UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Lisbon has six restaurants with a Michelin Star and it’s home to extraordinary Bel Canto which has two stars and lists as one of the world’s best 100 restaurants.

Hotels in Lisbon range from cool boutique independents in Bairro Alto to heritage five star guesthouses in Alfama, Atlantic beach resorts, international luxury hotels in the city centre and funky new brands on the waterfront at Cais do Sodré.

Alfama

The oldest city in Europe, Lisbon’s been partially destroyed by earthquake twice in the past 500 years. But somehow, the historic Alfama district has always remained relatively unscathed. Predominantly medieval with traces of ancient Rome here and there, it’s instantly recognisable from narrow alleys, steep staircases and tall, skinny buildings colourfully cluttered around cobbled streets.

Best for heritage boutique hotels with gorgeous roof terraces and their own Instagram accounts.
Apart from unmissable Castelo São Jorge, atmosphere’s the biggest attraction here: wander around and let Alfama work the charm.
Don’t miss: Lisbon Cathedral; Tram 28; National Azulejo Museum; Fado Museum; Caso dos Bicos.

Belém

The history of Lisbon over the past 1000 years is inextricably linked to the Age of Discoveries and nowhere in the city has more connections to the era than Belém. The waterfront district with wide open views over the River Tagus is a must-visit. Not only is it home to two of Portugal’s most famous World Heritage monuments, it’s where to buy the city’s best custard tarts, bar none.

Look for long, snaking queues in Belém at any time and you’ve found Pastéis de Belém. The historic custard tart (pastéis) baker is a city legend and you can’t leave Lisbon without visiting at least once.
Don’t miss: Torre de Belém; Mosteiro dos Jerónimos; Padrao dos Descobrimentos; the tomb of Vasco de Gama; Plaza Alfonso de Albuquerque.

Bairro Alto

The extraordinary ‘upper’ district can seem a little sleepy by day, head over in the early evening and it’s the Lisbon you always imagined: balconied 18th and 19th century homes lining romantic cobbled streets; tiny shops and pretty restaurants tucked into historic buildings; old fashioned street lights; and narrow alleys steep enough for handrails. Even younger kids find the fairy tale of Bairro Alto enchanting at night.

Good for indie hotels and cool European brands. This is the young barrio where you’ll find rising star restaurants; pop-up bars; rooftop swimming pools and new-name local designers.

Baixa Pombalina

The city centre was almost completely destroyed by earthquake in the late 18th century and Baixa Pombalina was designed after-the-fact to withstand anything. The sturdy, grid street plan and conservative architecture have managed well to date. Not the district for charmingly quaint Lisbon, but good for practicalities like tourist information, international hotels and shopping.

Enormous Avenida de Liberdade is where to look for designer stores and luxury hotels – not the cheapest place to stay in Lisbon but scores high on glamour.
Palácio Foz is the city’s Tourist Information Centre, and if there’s a grander one in Europe, it’s well hidden.
Don’t miss: Praça dos Restauradores; Elevador de Santa Justa; Rossio Station; São Pedro de Alcântra Gardens; Praça dom Pedro IV and Praça do Comercio; Teatro da Trinidade.

Chiado

Lisbon’s chic shopping district doesn’t work a budget but the enchantment is entirely free. Several historic 18th and 19th century buildings were damaged by fire in 1988 but the restoration work’s flawless and nothing about Chiado says inauthentic. Largely pedestrianised, walking around here’s easy with kids and some of the city’s prettiest and best loved cafés are a constant excuse to rest up for a little.

Drop into Armazéns do Chiado: Lisbon’s venerable department store was reimagined as a slick mall post-1988. The shops are good but it’s the architecture you want to see: work of Álvaro Siza Vieira designer of Boa Nova Teahouse near Porto.
Visit Livraria Bertrand on Rua Garret (opened in 1732, it’s the world’s oldest bookshop) and stop at Casa Pereira for exquisite heritage chocolate.
Don’t miss: Chiado Museum; Convento do Carma; Basilica dos Mártires; Largo do Chiado.

Costa da Caparica

Just over half an hour from the city, Costa da Caparica is where Lisbon hangs out on big, sandy Atlantic beaches in summer. Families and kids are king here and the friendly, fun atmosphere is more Algarve than major European capital.

Good for all-inclusive resort hotels, beach apartments and day’s out from Lisbon.
Parque Natural da Arrábida is fascinating to explore with kids and less than half an hour south of Costa da Caparica.

Educational value for kids

Visit Lisbon in mid-June for the annual Sardine Festival. Technically it’s the Festival of Saint Anthony, but marked by citywide fish grilling, barbecuing and feasting. Expect fantastic parades, street parties, soulful Fado 24/7, and the sight of upended saints in flower pots: Saint Anthony’s the saint of matchmaking and young Lisbon locals traditionally bury his effigy in soil as a love charm.

Take teens to Mercado de Ribeira in Lisbon’s port district on a Friday or Saturday evening. The original 19th century market was almost demolished until Time Out stepped in, bought it over and restored it as one of the coolest places in the city for pop-up restaurants, new music, mini-festivals and hanging out. Also good for lunch.

Monsanto Forest Park is Lisbon’s largest, covers over 1000ha and showcases the city’s fabulous mountains. Walk or cycle the Monsanto Green Lane with kids, the views of the River Tagus are amazing.

Indielisboa in May is one of Europe’s most exciting independent movie festivals and shows a fantastic selection of interesting animation.

Getting about with kids in Lisbon

Unless you’ve nerves of steel and a firm grasp of Portuguese, don’t drive in Lisbon. The city style is defensive in the extreme and takes the type of skills you probably aren’t planning to pick up on holiday. Use the Metro, it goes everywhere and keeps late hours. The trams are excellent, plus they take priority over all other transport. And if you’re working barrio by barrio, Lisbon’s not too difficult to walk around with kids.