The oldest city in Europe, Lisbon’s been partially destroyed by earthquake twice in the past 500 years. But somehow, the historic Alfama district has always remained relatively unscathed. Predominantly medieval with traces of ancient Rome here and there, it’s instantly recognisable from narrow alleys, steep staircases and tall, skinny buildings colourfully cluttered around cobbled streets.

• Best for heritage boutique hotels with gorgeous roof terraces and their own Instagram accounts.
• Apart from unmissable Castelo São Jorge, atmosphere’s the biggest attraction here: wander around and let Alfama work the charm.
• Don’t miss: Lisbon Cathedral; Tram 28; National Azulejo Museum; Fado Museum; Caso dos Bicos.

The history of Lisbon over the past 1000 years is inextricably linked to the Age of Discoveries and nowhere in the city has more connections to the era than Belém. The waterfront district with wide open views over the River Tagus is a must-visit. Not only is it home to two of Portugal’s most famous World Heritage monuments, it’s where to buy the city’s best custard tarts, bar none.

• Look for long, snaking queues in Belém at any time and you’ve found Pastéis de Belém. The historic custard tart (pastéis) baker is a city legend and you can’t leave Lisbon without visiting at least once.
• Don’t miss: Torre de Belém; Mosteiro dos Jerónimos; Padrao dos Descobrimentos; the tomb of Vasco de Gama; Plaza Alfonso de Albuquerque.

The extraordinary ‘upper’ district can seem a little sleepy by day, head over in the early evening and it’s the Lisbon you always imagined: balconied 18th and 19th century homes lining romantic cobbled streets; tiny shops and pretty restaurants tucked into historic buildings; old fashioned street lights; and narrow alleys steep enough for handrails. Even younger kids find the fairy tale of Bairro Alto enchanting at night.

• Good for indie hotels and cool European brands. This is the young barrio where you’ll find rising star restaurants; pop-up bars; rooftop swimming pools and new-name local designers.

The city centre was almost completely destroyed by earthquake in the late 18th century and Baixa Pombalina was designed after-the-fact to withstand anything. The sturdy, grid street plan and conservative architecture have managed well to date. Not the district for charmingly quaint Lisbon, but good for practicalities like tourist information, international hotels and shopping.

• Enormous Avenida de Liberdade is where to look for designer stores and luxury hotels – not the cheapest place to stay in Lisbon but scores high on glamour.
• Palácio Foz is the city’s Tourist Information Centre, and if there’s a grander one in Europe, it’s well hidden.
• Don’t miss: Praça dos Restauradores; Elevador de Santa Justa; Rossio Station; São Pedro de Alcântra Gardens; Praça dom Pedro IV and Praça do Comercio; Teatro da Trinidade.

Lisbon’s chic shopping district doesn’t work a budget but the enchantment is entirely free. Several historic 18th and 19th century buildings were damaged by fire in 1988 but the restoration work’s flawless and nothing about Chiado says inauthentic. Largely pedestrianised, walking around here’s easy with kids and some of the city’s prettiest and best loved cafés are a constant excuse to rest up for a little.

• Drop into Armazéns do Chiado: Lisbon’s venerable department store was reimagined as a slick mall post-1988. The shops are good but it’s the architecture you want to see: work of Álvaro Siza Vieira designer of Boa Nova Teahouse near Porto.
• Visit Livraria Bertrand on Rua Garret (opened in 1732, it’s the world’s oldest bookshop) and stop at Casa Pereira for exquisite heritage chocolate.
• Don’t miss: Chiado Museum; Convento do Carma; Basilica dos Mártires; Largo do Chiado.

Just over half an hour from the city, Costa da Caparica is where Lisbon hangs out on big, sandy Atlantic beaches in summer. Families and kids are king here and the friendly, fun atmosphere is more Algarve than major European capital.

• Good for all-inclusive resort hotels, beach apartments and day’s out from Lisbon.
• Parque Natural da Arrábida is fascinating to explore with kids and less than half an hour south of Costa da Caparica.