One for the wish list: dream family ski trip in the Dolomites

After years at the top of his wish list, would a family ski trip to Alta Badia in the Dolomites be as wonderful as John Lewisohn always imagined?

Curling, Alta Badia © Freddy Planinschek

Turning family ski dreams into reality in the Dolomites

With the possible exception of skiing thigh-deep powder in the Japanese Alps to an appreciative audience of blue-eyed, red-faced snow monkeys (who would probably macaque guffaw at my poor technique and fitness) number one on my ski wish-list has always been the Italian Dolomites . Despite numerous trips to the Alps, these uniquely craggy and beautiful peaks had evaded me so far, but finally, in early January, here I was and they were immediately enchanting.

SkyAlps, an Italian airline, have recently started a new twice weekly service from Stansted to Bolzano, the Dolomites’ main town: far better than flying to Venice or Verona or even Innsbruck or Munich, all of which entail around a three-hour transfer to Alta Badia, rather than the 90-minute journey northeast of Bolzano .

Fun slope with sensational views © Alex Moling

A UNESCO melting pot with the most unique culture

Due to the topography, every region of the Alps can justifiably claim to have its own unique culture and customs, with communities hemmed into valleys surrounded by snow-bound mountains for much of the year. But the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is truly a melting pot, with a proud and thriving culture accented by the influence of Austria .

“It’s like a totally different continent, let alone country, up here in the mountains,” said a waitress at our hotel, Ciasa Salares. “I am from Sicily , and after two years I’m still getting used to the landscape and people who even speak an unintelligible language among themselves.”

Sledging, Alta Badia © Alex Moling

Ladin is language of choice in the Dolomites ski area

Ladin is a Romance language spoken by less than 40,000 people in South Tyrol, Trentino and Belluno Province. It’s still taught in schools, and there are local radio and TV stations in Ladin too. “We are a region that many other Italians would like to migrate to,” said Nicole from the Alta Badia Tourist Board. “But I think it’s not that easy to assimilate; “we have a great standard of living, we look after each other, property is expensive and while we all speak Italian, we like to speak Ladin among ourselves.”

Sassongher, Puez-Odle National Park, Alta Badia © Paola Finali

Ciara Salares was our ideal Dolomites ski base

Alta Badia and other local provinces are popular for hiking in Summer and – for adrenaline junkies – numerous daunting Via Ferrata: iron staircases welded into vertical cliffs. Gourmet food, spas and wellness to be enjoyed in every season, characterize many luxury boutique hotels in the region, which have often been in the same family for generations.

Our hotel, Ciasa Salares , owned and run with passion by the Wagner family, had a dedicated cheese room, chocolate room and three restaurants; one of which, Cocun Cellar, has a wine cellar with an extraordinary 24,000 bottles of wine, most of which seemed to be on display close to our table.

Ciasa Salares, Dolomites © Ciasa Salares

Easy access to slopes and spa and Dolomites views

Located just outside San Cassiano village, there’s easy access from the hotel to the slopes with the lift just across the road, and guests can ski back to the hotel where a pool, spa, sauna, Turkish bath and hot tub awaits, complete with a panoramic view of the Dolomites. Guest rooms, most with expansive balconies, combine Alpine and Italian design and are more than spacious enough for families.

1200km of pistes, Dolomites © Alex Moling

Superski Dolimiti Ski Pass: 450 lifts, 12 resorts, 1200km of pistes

So why should you decide on Alta Badia, and The Dolomites in general, rather than the better known Alpine ski destinations this winter?

While I won’t pretend to have seen, by any margin, all that Alta Badia and The Dolomites have to offer I got a good snapshot. The single Superski Dolimiti Ski Pass accesses an amazing 12 different resorts with 450 lifts and 1,200km of pistes, making it one of the world’s largest ski destinations. Also, each resort has its own character, and all are framed by those resplendent peaks.

Also, in other good news, the pass is great value compared to some other European passes and covers you for all 12 resorts: you can buy resort-specific passes too.

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Learning to ski in the Dolomites © Alex Moling

Alta Badia ski schools: Italian charm with German efficiency

Alta Badia has several excellent ski schools and nursery areas managed with Italian charm and German efficiency: an ideal mix. Although runs in Alta Badia tend to be on the shortish side, not to be missed is the 7.5km Armentarola Piste, part of the famous Lagazuoi ski circuit. It’s designated a red, but most of it could be tackled by intermediates. In any case this is one run not to be taken at speed.

Horse carriage rides in Alta Badia © Alex Moling

Watch out for frozen waterfalls and Dolomites ice climbers

Instead, thread your way down, and take in the scenery: in mid-January we passed frozen waterfalls where adventurous types were ice climbing. Armentarola piste finishes in a flat valley and has a unique transit back to the resort. Skiers hold onto long ropes attached to a sleigh pulled by two heavy Noriker horses. Be sure to have a few euro coins in your pocket as the driver only takes cash. The ride wends its way between Christmas trees for around 15 minutes before depositing you next to more typical ski lifts for access to the rest of the ski area.

Santa Croce Church, Dolomites © Freddy Planinschek

Try a taste of the Dolomites with Michelin starred chefs

‘A taste for skiing’ is an initiative in its 15th year and pairs eight Michelin starred chefs with mountain huts on the slopes of Alta Badia, each creating a signature dish, available to order throughout the season. Although this makes a change from standard mountain fare, of course, kids can still enjoy pasta. Also, €3 from each ‘A taste for skiing’ order goes to a local charity.

One day our guide also took us to a mountain hut fringed by deep snow and owned by a local, Maria Sofia, whose cooking is authentic, regional and healthy. Called The Brunch Tribe, at €65 per person the meal is a memorable experience for the whole family and only available to 10 guests at a time.

All in all, it’s unsurprising that Alta Badia has earned a reputation as one of the Italian Alps’ finest gourmet destinations.

Club Moritzino, Alta Badia © Freddy Planinschek

Falling hard for the spirit of Dolce Vita in the Dolomites

Now I know what I always imagined, that once visited I would want to return.

Those guffawing Japanese snow monkeys will have to wait, but I definitely won’t be waiting to visit Alta Badia again to try some more of The Dolomites’ Dolce Vita. Also, I checked, and the phrase is the same in Ladin as Italian, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it originated here.

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