Who needs Greece? Try a pet-friendly Guernsey island-hopping adventure instead

Imagine an island-hopping holiday and it’s likely your mind will wander off to the sun-scorched Greek Isles, the tropical beaches of Hawaii, the crystal clear waters of the Caribbean or the remote paradises of the Indian Ocean. But think closer to home, and you might be surprised by some hidden gems that are far more easily within reach.

Guernsey is just a few hours’ ferry ride away – and from there you can continue life on the ocean waves of the English Channel with day trips to – or longer stays on – the nearby small but perfectly formed islands of Sark and Herm. And trust me when I tell you – the scenery is breathtaking, and the natural beauty and charm of all three islands will knock you out.

An extra bonus for us? We could easily take our dog Hugo on the trip to enjoy all the beautiful beaches and paw-fectly unspoilt countryside the islands have to offer – no flights required.

Shell beach, Herm © Alistair Heap

So where is exactly is Guernsey island?

Guernsey is about 75 miles from the south coast of England, off the coast of Normandy. It’s not part of the UK, and has its own government and laws, though it is a ‘Crown Dependency’ which means King Charles is head of state. As well as Guernsey itself, the ‘bailiwick of Guernsey’ includes the islands of Alderney, Sark and Herm.

Pet-friendly ferry travel in the Channel Islands © Alistair Heap

Pet-friendly ferry cabins made getting to Guernsey a breeze

Getting to Guernsey from the UK flight-free for our three-night getaway with our 12-month old crossbreed rescue dog Hugo was a breeze thanks to Condor Ferries. We knew we couldn’t possibly leave him in the car on a crossing  – he’d likely have eaten the steering wheel in distress. So we were delighted to discover that Condor Ferries offer several pet-friendly cabins on the Condor Islander ferry. So we booked a return from Portsmouth and hit the waves.

Just a heads-up: dogs must wear a muzzle when you take them from your car up to the cabin, plus on the deck in the pet-friendly area. So it’s a good idea to practice with one at home before your trip. But once you’re in the cabin, they can ditch the muzzle, chill out, and sleep peacefully, knowing you’re there by their side.

St Pierre Park Hotel, Guernsey © Alistair Heap

Finding serene and unspoilt Guernsey island life

Arriving at Guernsey’s St Peter Port, we headed off the ferry, driving past plenty of super-sleek yachts sitting serene in the soft glow of the late afternoon sun that bathed the harbour. Then it was on through narrow, smooth roads (no potholes in sight) past plenty of chic homes and idyllic gardens, and to the St. Pierre Park Hotel just ten minutes away.

First impressions on that short journey? Less traffic for starters. Plus everything seemed so clean, charming and unspoilt here on Guernsey – much like going back in time to the UK countryside of the 1950s – but with an added touch of French style.

Set on 35 acres of stunning grounds, the hotel offered Hugo plenty of space to roam and stretch his legs. He had a great time sprinting amongst the tall grasses left to grow wild for the bees, stopping just short of making a splash in the serene lake that sits in the grounds. Our room was super comfortable with provision for Hugo in the form of his own comfy donut bed, feeding bowls and treats.

A magical Guernsey sunset © Alistair Heap

Magical memories of our first glorious sunset

After a fine fish dinner enhanced by that dreamy view, we took a walk along the coast between two artillery forts – the Rousse tower and Chouet tower –  built to defend the coastline from invasion by France in the late 18th century. There, we took in the stunning ocean views (of which there are of course many in Guernsey).

Then came the sunset – and what a gorgeous one –  bathing the horizon in a warm orange glow. You can totally understand why so many locals in Guernsey flock to the coast to soak in those gorgeous summer sunsets night after night.

La Coupee, Sark © Chris George/Visit Guernsey

Step back in time in stunning car-free Sark

Day two and we were island-hopping to Sark, the crown jewel of the Channel Islands, for the day. The ferry journey (dog-friendly of course) from Guernsey took about 40 minutes and at the other end, it was as if we had been transported to a different era, a place where time has stood still and the peace and quiet is only punctuated by birdsong.

The beautiful island of Sark is car-free. There are no paved roads, and the only transport you’ll see are bikes, the odd tractor plus horses and carriages which offer tours of the island. There’s also the harbour hill bus, known colloquially by locals as ‘the toast rack’. It’s actually a tractor with a passenger trailer that takes you from the ferry Sark-style up the steep hill into the main village.  And while it makes a fun ride for kids, we chose to let Hugo romp up the shady wooded pathway that runs alongside the ‘road’.

Once in the village, we headed to The Avenue, which hosts the grand total of a very few shops and cafes. There we hired some bikes from ‘Avenue Cycles’ and set off to explore, with Hugo running alongside us as we pedalled. With no worries that there’ll be cars speeding towards you at every corner, it makes for a relaxing way to get around –  a dream come true for any family that loves cycling.

As we made our way around the totally enchanting and unspoilt island, we were charmed by its unique character, with quaint village lanes to explore, stunning headlands and bays and beaches far below us boasting sparkling clear waters and popping up at every turn.

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Crossing La Coupee for incredible views with no need to crawl

Crossing the heights of La Coupee, a narrow isthmus that connects Big and Little Sark is a must for breathtaking views. You’re not allowed to cycle across it, you have to walk. Luckily for me, since I’m not a fan of heights, there are hand railings to grip – I mean hold onto –  now. Back in the day, before 1900, there were no railings at all, and on windy days, schoolchildren had to crawl across on all fours!

After some photos, we stopped off at Caragh Chocolates for a coffee alfresco. Then, we parked our bikes and went for a coastal stroll, soaking in the amazing headland views and sniffing the scents of the beautiful wildflowers like sea campion, foxgloves, and oxeye daisies that blanket the slopes and cliffs.

A Dark Sky Island for blue sky days

Next stop,  La Seigneurie House & Gardens, the home of Sark’s seigneur (the French for ‘Lord’) where we explored the pretty walled garden and maze. And a final walk through shady woodland brought us to the ‘window in the rock’ – a ‘window’ cut into the cliff face to frame the stunning view from this vantage point on the west coast of the island. Beware the sheer drop below, though, so approach with caution!

There are several places you can stay overnight in Sark so you get the opportunity to see the stunning starry spectacle that is nighttime here. With very few streetlights, it must be quite a sight; in fact in 2011, the International Dark Sky Association designated Sark the world’s first Dark Sky Island.

Exploring Guernsey: an island with 39 miles of coast path and 27 beaches

Next day, we spent exploring Guernsey itself. Covering an area of just around 24 square miles, getting around the island is easy by car. There are no motorways, just a network of peaceful roads and lanes. Since many of them are quite narrow, you’ll often see locals drive up onto the pavements to get past each other – so we guess that’s allowed!

The island boasts a magnificent 39 miles of coastal path, and a staggering 27 beaches. Just seven of these don’t permit dogs from 1st May to 30th September, but the rest welcome pooches all year round, so we found plenty of stretches of soft white sand for Hugo to dig, splash and scamper on, with safe bathing for children, too.

If you’ve got a history fan in your clan, you might want to explore the island’s past. Guernsey was invaded and occupied by German forces during World War Two, and the remnants of the occupation can be found all over the island – with fortifications dotted along the coastline, and plenty of museums documenting the period. The Visit Guernsey App tells you where to go to follow the Occupation Trail.

Coastal walking with Hugo © Alistair Heap

We paid a visit to a couple of the stops on the trail including the ornate Little Chapel, then on to the German Underground Hospital, a huge maze of tunnels built under a low hill in the heart of the Guernsey countryside which now houses a museum to the events of the occupation – all quite fascinating. And Hugo enjoyed getting out of the sun for a while.

Later we followed the app’s ‘beautiful bays, marinas and castles walk’ which took us from the coast to the unspoilt leafy countryside.

We intended to finish the day with a swim in La Vallette tidal saltwater bathing pools. Recently renovated, they’re a popular spot, with four pools to choose from, including the Children’s Pool for shallow swims. But we packed so much else in, we simply didn’t have time – they close at 5pm. So that’s something for next time.

Heavenly Herm: a tiny haven with Caribbean-esque beaches

On our last day, we island hopped to Herm – just 20 minutes away on the Herm Travel Trident. With no cars and no crowds, and even no bicycles, this tiny island (measuring just 1.36 miles long and 0.54 miles wide) really is a haven from the everyday.

Hop off the ferry and it’s a short walk to the tiny village centre with its hotel, pub and shop. Then trek the winding cliffside coastal path, covered in swathes of pretty pink flowers. The stunning ocean, neighbouring island and French coast views make it a wow-a-minute walk. We did the entire perimeter (about 3.9 miles) in just under two hours. So, plenty of wows along the way.

And the beaches? Absolutely stunning – Caribbean-esque to be precise. Sink into the soft white sands of Shell Beach and Belvoir Bay, stopping off for a swim in their shallow, clear turquoise waters and a cool drink in their beach bars. Get the right weather (and we did) and it really felt like a tropical paradise. Easy to see why so many people hop over from Guernsey on the ferry just to spend the day basking on these tranquil sands.

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