Into Africa: our truly extraordinary family safari in South Africa and Botswana

Reliving the thrill of her first family safari, Tessa Buhrmann visits South Africa and Botswana, only this time with a little less fear and a lot more luxury in the mix.

Watching the sun set, Mashatu, Botswana

Despite being mid-winter, the temperature nears 30ºC, and the surrounding landscape is dry and dusty. At a waterhole, elephants gather, drinking deeply and spraying their dry wrinkled bodies to cool down. A young elephant huddles close to its mother, and we watch in silence as two white rhino join the pachyderm party.

First family safari, Mosetlha, South Africa

The luxury of revisiting my first family safari

As a little girl I used to listen in awe as family friends, the Rogers, shared tales of the elephants, rhino, lions and even leopards they encountered on their family safari adventures, exploring the wilds of Southern Africa’s great national parks in their trusty Land Rover. These stories sparked a desire in me to travel – a seed that was planted early on. As a teenager, that seed was nurtured and grew during camping trips in Zululand with my best friend and her family. We roasted marshmallows over the campfire, listened to hippos munching around our tent in the dead of night, and trembled at the distant roar of a lion.

Fast forward several decades, and it’s just after midnight, a rhino grazes alongside my raised wooden cabin and black backed jackals call nearby. It feels like my first family safari as in an instant I’m right back in that flimsy tent in Zululand. Thankfully, my accommodation at Mosetlha Bush Camp & Eco Lodge in Madikwe game reserve is somewhat more secure and I snuggle under the duvet, rather than trembling with fear.

Pool with a view, Madikwe, South Africa

Malaria-free reserves are a priority on any family safari

Madikwe, established in 1991, is one of South Africa’s largest game reserves covering 750 km². This malaria-free reserve is ideal for a first family safari and offers an excellent chance to see Africa’s Big Five: lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, and buffalo, so named because they are considered to be the most difficult and dangerous to hunt on foot. The abundance of game is thanks to Operation Phoenix, one of Madikwe’s largest animal relocation projects, which has reintroduced over 8,000 animals of 27 species, to what was once farmland.

Even the bush loos and bucket showers have kid-appeal

Mosetlha, a small, rustic and unfenced bush camp, lies in the heart of Madikwe. It’s a genuine eco-lodge and operates fully off-grid. Lanterns line the pathways at night, solar lights illuminate the rooms and meals are cooked over the open fire. Mod-cons include private bathrooms, albeit with bucket showers where the water is heated through an old-fashioned wood-fired, “donkey boiler.” A fellow guest tells me how her young teenage boys loved their experience when they visited as a family a few years before: it had never been easier to get the boys to take a shower! I imagine they enjoyed learning the science behind the vented ‘bush loo’ too: not as rustic as it sounds which is good news on a first family safari.

Mosetlha offers kids, age six and above, a true bush adventure, as well as up-close encounters with Africa’s wildlife. The camp even has two family suites with adjacent rooms that provide privacy yet keep the family close. And for younger kids, pull-out beds allow them to sleep in the same room as parents.

Zebra, Madikwe Game Reserve

The wildlife always wows, even if it isn’t your first family safari

On an early morning game drive, we huddle beneath blankets as our guide, Jonny, spots a lioness with three cubs. She’s in hunting mode and alert to every sound, while her cubs play unaware. An impala’s alarm snort halts the hunt, and they retreat into the bush. Nearby, a giraffe browses, as zebra and wildebeest graze, while a warthog roots through elephant dung, amusing us as it finds tasty, undigested seeds. Unbeknown to us, Jonny has a plan. As we round a corner there, beneath a large marula tree, is the Jamala lion pride. A few swishing tails and inquiring glances is all the response we get, but still we’re thrilled to have this moment all to ourselves.

Tracking with expert guides feels like a privilege

Our afternoon drive is spent tracking a leopard, but with no luck. From an elevated position, we watch family after family of elephants as they come to the dam to drink, wallow, and dust bathe – protecting their skin from the sun, and repelling bugs.

After a spectacular sunset and a sundowner, we head back. Jonny switches on the spotlight hoping to find feline eyes. The vehicle slows as he points to an impala kill tangled in a fence. “Leopard,” he says. “It must still be nearby.” His bush knowledge soon reveals a young male leopard hiding beneath a bush. The thick foliage limits our view, we wait, hoping he’ll retrieve his meal, but he seems content to sit us out. Perhaps we’ll see him in the morning.

It’s our final drive with Jonny, we’re eager to find the leopard again. He’s moved the kill, but where? Jonny’s instinct guides us a bit further, and there, in a leadwood tree, is our leopard with his kill. He’s young and skittish, quickly bolting down the tree into the surrounding bush.

Family Suite, Lelapa Lodge, Madikwe

Madikwe works romance as well as the first family safari vibe

After a hearty breakfast we transfer to Madikwe Safari Lodge where we’re welcomed with lemon-grass scented cloths, chilled drinks, and warm smiles. We stay at Kopano, a boutique-style lodge with just four luxurious suites, perfect for a first family safari but equally seductive for romantic getaways. Lelapa Lodge, with its kid-friendly amenities, is ideal for children of all ages. Four of its 12 suites cater for families with young children, offering bunk beds, toys, and even cute little kiddie robes.

Lelapa Eco House, Madikwe

I pop into the Eco House, a child-focused activity hub offering child-minding and educational fun, allowing parents time to themselves, whether to relax and read in their suite or luxuriate in the spa. A dad drags his son away from the fun activities, but the promise of a milkshake and pool time has him happily following. For a mum and daughter treat, the spa offers tailor-made treatments especially for children. Other activities include the one-hour kids’ safari, rock-painting, cupcake decorating and fun dress-ups, as well as pizza making and movie nights under the stars.

A front-row seat for wildlife complete with cocktails

The main pool at Lelapa is a green oasis, perfect for sunbathing with a cocktail, while being enthralled by the elephants that come to drink and wallow in the waterhole it overlooks. A small, horizontal, electric fence between us and them, just a few metres away, provides a front-row seat to this unforgettable first family safari experience.

Sunset game drive, Madikwe

Elephants by moonlight are even more magical

Game drives with our guide Ryan are both fun and informative and we quickly spot more elephants, zebras, giraffe and even two male lions lazing under a tree. We watch in wonder as a cheetah mum calls for her five cubs, who come running to her, crossing the road right in front of us. “She has been out hunting and is now calling them to join her,” Ryan explains. “They’re most vulnerable when she’s away.” She gathers them and leads them to the safety of the dense bush.

I love the coffee and sundowner stops, where we stretch our legs and spot animal tracks, from huge elephant prints to the tiny steenbok spoor. One evening, a brown hyena wandered past as we were sipping our G&Ts. But it’s at night, when the spotlight comes on, that the magic really happens. Ryan spots a herd of elephants; they amble past, first one then another and another, their grey bodies glinting in the soft moonlight. Big ones and little ones; some a bit curious, but most just lumbering along. I realise that I’ve been holding my breath – the perfect end to our Madikwe safari.

Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa, Johannesburg, South Africa

Out of the bush and into Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa

After a luxurious night at the beautiful Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa, we head to Lanseria Airport for the Botswana leg of our safari journey. Smaller families have the option of one child sharing a room with two adults at Fairlawns, and larger families can book interconnecting suites, as well as two-bedroom family suites or Villa Moji, which sleeps six and has a private pool.

Euphorbia Villa, Mashatu, Botswana

A first family safari in Botswana’s Land Of The Giants

As we fly across Botswana, the vastness of Mashatu Game Reserve becomes evident from the plane window. The Limpopo River is lined with a ribbon of forest, and beyond, rocky outcrops and small trees dot open plains. After clearing immigration we meet our guides for the transfer game drive to 5-star Euphorbia Mashatu, our home for the next few nights.

My Euphorbia villa is exquisite, with a private deck and plunge pool overlooking the Majale River – a perfect spot to sip a cool drink while taking in the landscape. The natural palette perfectly complements the wilderness setting, making it ideal for a special getaway… minus the kids! Top tip: book children into nearby Mashatu Lodge with gran and gramps and you can enjoy activities together and still have some alone time.

Elephants, Matebole Hide, Mashatu, Botswana

Elephants earn this part of Botswana its nickname

Located in Botswana’s Northern Tuli Game Reserve, Mashatu is often called the ‘Land of the Giants’ due to its significant elephant population and the distinctive Mashatu trees that flourish along the rivers. Spanning 420km², Mashatu offers diverse habitats, from sprawling plains dotted with baobabs to rocky outcrops and riverine forests: perfect for game viewing.

Land of the Giants, Mashatu, Botswana

Not boasting but…we saw all ‘Big 7 Land Based Giants’

Morning and afternoon game drives with ranger Rodgers and tracker Pontsho are both exciting and informative. We traverse sandy plains, rocky terrain, and dry riverbeds, each offering thrilling opportunities to encounter the area’s rich biodiversity. We watch white-throated bee-eaters flit in and out of their nest holes in the sandy riverbank, a Verreaux eagle owl peers down at us from an apple-leaf tree and a herd of eland scatter, creating clouds of dust. Rodgers tells us that the eland, the world’s largest antelope, is one of Mashatu’s ‘Big Seven Land Based Giants,’ along with the elephant, giraffe, ostrich, kori bustard and lion. We were fortunate enough to see all seven!

Leopard lazing, Mashatu, Botswana

Botswana delivers leopards and lions on a first family safari

Mashatu is also renowned for outstanding leopard sightings and on one drive alone, we have three unforgettable encounters: a young male leopard saunters across the sandy riverbed, casually walking past us before disappearing into the thicket; further along another snoozes beneath a knobby combretum, and two more laze in the branches of a large Mashatu tree.

A pride of lions relax in the mopane scrub, a young one rolls in the sand while another play-fights with the branch of a bush, before they move off with determination. “They’re in hunting mode,” Rodgers tells us. Similarly, in the golden light of dawn, a trio of cheetah watch and wait, there’s a small herd of impala in the distance. They’re happy to bide their time too.

Matebole Hide, Mashatu, Botswana

Don’t miss out on Family Happy Hour at the Hide

Mashatu offers more than just game drives. There are walking safaris, night camping under the stars, as well as cycling and horseback safaris. But it’s the photographic safaris at the award-winning Matebole Hide that are an absolute highlight. The hide, made from repurposed shipping containers, offers a unique perspective for capturing wildlife coming to drink at the waterhole. Elephants by the hundreds, some so close you could almost touch them, along with herds of impala and kudu, and heaps of birds, from flocks of red-billed quelea to Meyer’s parrots and African green pigeons.

New to Mashatu is ‘Family Happy Hour at the Hide,’ a special experience for families with younger children under-12. This hour-long session, available before or after game drives, allows families with a private vehicle the opportunity to experience the Matebole Hide together.

Mashatu Lodge and Tuli Safari Lodge welcome guests of all ages, while Mashatu Tent Camp is ideal for children aged 12 and over. For a private family getaway, Kolokolo and Shalimpo Safari Homes are the perfect choice. These exclusive-use homes offer the comforts of a fully-equipped four-bedroom residence, tranquil outdoor spaces, private pools, and stunning wilderness views.

But don’t take my word for it. Caisey Kelly, aged 15, shares her personal Mashatu experience.

Caisey and Harry Kelly, Mashatu Lodge © Mark Kelly

My five magical days in Mashatu, Botswana

Our journey began with so much excitement I couldn’t sleep the night before! My family woke up at 5am, but I was already dressed and ready to go. We flew from Durban to Lanseria in Johannesburg, then met our pilots for our flight to Limpopo Valley Airport. During the flight, we were served lunch, giving us the energy we needed for the safari ahead. As we approached our destination, the view from the plane was breathtaking, with herds of elephants, zebras, and even giraffes.

After clearing customs at the private airstrip, we met our amazing guide, Lovemore, who drove us to Tuli Safari Lodge. The adventure began immediately, with a thrilling drive where we spotted a leopard and her cubs. When we arrived, we quickly unpacked and settled into our beautiful new home, where I couldn’t wait to take a shower under the stars in the evening.

The chefs prepared a delicious high tea, which we enjoyed before heading out on our first game drive. Our excitement grew as we saw a pride of lions, another leopard, and a herd of elephants! But the best part was the mesmerising sunset. Our guides found the perfect spot for a sundowner, where we enjoyed long, cool drinks and some African snacks: I loved the dried mango.

Night sky, Tuli Lodge, Botswana

First night in Botswana: a sky full of stars and the bush lullaby

The drive back to the lodge was magical, with a sky full of stars and the distant call of hyenas. Our guide stopped often to point out constellations, and I’ll never forget the vastness of the skies above us. When we returned to the lodge, we were welcomed with hot face towels that refreshed us after the dusty drive. That night, I fell asleep almost immediately, lulled by the sounds of the bush.

Lions on game drive, Mashatu

Full English breakfast…by the waterhole

Day two started with a 5am wake-up call. After a quick breakfast, we hopped onto the game viewing vehicle for a chilly morning safari, grateful for the blankets and hot water bottles! The freezing air was soon warmed by the rising sun, and as it got light, we stopped for hot drinks! Back at the lodge, the staff surprised us with a delicious English breakfast by a waterhole, where we watched a herd of elephants drinking.

We enjoyed some time splashing around in the pool before heading out for our afternoon game drive. We watched in excitement as our guide tracked a leopard and found her with her two cubs on some rocks with a fresh kill. I was blown away by the experience of seeing the cubs try to copy their mother before she quickly put them in their place. We also had two rare sightings: a honey badger and an aardvark. At the lodge’s bar, there’s a chalkboard where guests share their sightings, and ours impressed everyone!

Our day ended with dinner in the Boma with the Tuli Lodge staff entertaining us with song and dance – I am pretty sure my dad had a tear in his eye, though he said it was from the dust!

Sub adult cheetah, Mashatu, Botswana

It’s official, Botswana is nothing like Bristol

We moved to Mashatu Lodge on day three. Its big trees and two swimming pools are impressive, but my favourite was to sit in the outdoor lounge, where I could watch a crocodile sunning itself by the waterhole, not something I usually see at home in Bristol! Mashatu Lodge has good Wi-Fi, so I caught up with my friends and shared my experiences. The lodge also has an educational room where I hung out and downloaded my photos.

That afternoon with our new guide, Bellamy, we set out in search of cheetahs: two brothers and a sister. We found them tracking a herd of impala and followed at a safe distance so as not to spook them, but after about 45 minutes one of the boys got impatient and startled the herd, ruining the hunt. I was quietly happy for the impala on this occasion.

Bush walk, Mashatu

Next time I’ll definitely sleep out under the stars

Our final morning was more relaxed. While my dad and brother went on what looked like an amazing bush walk, judging by the photos, I was treated to a massage and a foot treatment at the lodge. Then, in the evening, after our game drive, we enjoyed a surprise “bush” dinner where dancers from the local village performed. Tradition required us to enter the party by dancing, which was so much fun. The dinner was set up next to a camp where guests can sleep out under the stars, something I definitely plan to do next time!

On Day five we packed up and headed back to Limpopo Valley Airport. The flight back to Johannesburg was short, but I left with a heart full of memories, a camera full of pictures, and a head full of dreams about my next adventure in remarkable Botswana.

Photography: Tess Buhrmann; Tuli Safari Lodge, Mashatu; Mashatu Game Reserve; Madikwe Safari Lodge; Mark Kelly