Cosy up and have a winter city break in wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen

With two of the world’s oldest theme parks open for Christmas, free skating and hygge at heart, Seonaid McGill thinks a Copenhagen city break wins winter this year.

Christmas at Tivoli Gardens © Daniel Rasmussen

Find a winter fairy tale on a Copenhagen city break

Hans Christian Andersen was a regular at Tivoli Gardens, Walt Disney wanted to recreate the atmosphere at his original Disneyland in California and it’s the second oldest theme park in the world. So if there’s one place you have to drop by in November, this is it. Go after dark – late afternoon at this time of year – for the dazzle of 1,000-plus light-drenched trees and about 70 times as many baubles. Tivoli only started opening for Christmas in the 1990s, but you wouldn’t know it.

Copenhagen is mad about breakfast, you should be too

Not one of the cheapest cities, turn Copenhagen’s pricey hotels to your advantage by booking room-only and indulging in the local love of breakfast (or brunch). A little bit under the radar, Lille Petra Café in Kronprinsessegade, is worth seeking out for cute courtyard (wrap up cosy) and house-blend granola. That said, once you’ve tasted the salted caramel oatmeal at Mad & Kaffe, there’s no going back. And if you find the siren call of B&B irresistible, all-day breakfast is very much a thing.

Making like Giacometti, Louisiana Museum © Jørgen Bo & Vilhelm Vohlert

Take your young art lovers to play in Louisiana this winter

Although it’s not strictly in Copenhagen, Louisiana Museum of Modern Art lets you test the city’s enviable public transport on an hour’s train ride north. Considering it has quite a few works you might have assumed were in more boastful collections – Hockney’s ‘A Closer Grand Canyon’ for one – it’s a friendly and deeply unpretentious space: kids wander at will and that’s just fine. But, on the off-chance yours aren’t as gallery-trained as the locals, the three-storey Louisiana Børnehus children’s wing has open workshops every day for four to 16 year olds. In other good news, the museum gives free entry to under-18s.

Where to get frosty feels on a Copenhagen city break

Every year at the start of December, the entrance to Frederiksberg Gardens turns into skater’s heaven with the opening of Frederiksberg Runddel. It’s a huge rink that never closes and absolutely free, skate-hire is available and the only rule is no ice hockey – not too tough to obey. Heading more in the winter wonderland direction, Broens Skøjtebane rink on the harbour-front is all fairy lights, food stalls and festivities – there’s a reason it opens for the season on 31 October. And for truly spellbinding, the dinky rink at Tivoli Gardens is the Copenhagen heart stealer.

Haveselskabets Have Christmas Market © Visit Copenhagen

Find your own version of hygge at cosy Christmas markets

Copenhagen averages about 20 Christmas markets each year so, unless you really like a challenge, be selective. Start with Højbro Plads which claims the title ‘Københavns hyggeligste’ (Copenhagen’s cosiest) and comes complete with live reindeer, wandering pixies and adorable little log cabin stalls. Also, it’s handily next to Strøget, the city’s main shopping district. Although there’s a Hans Christian Andersen Market, a better bet is Nyhavn: the colourful district Andersen loved so much he had not one, but two, homes here. Stalls line the cobbled quayside selling everything from handmade decorations to Danish doughnuts and when you’re done browsing, Nyhavn is a good spot for lunch – or dinner.

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Episode vintage shop, Copenhagen © Episode

Vintage Ganni for a Copenhagen city break with teens

If Copenhagen’s vintage shops are anything to go by, the real Ganni girls are thrifty types. Put that theory to the test in Larsbjørnstræde, the heartland of pre-loved stores and cosy cafés, close to the Museum District. Try Audrey Vintage for hints of that Copenhagen street style we’ve been seeing all summer. Time’s Up Vintage is at the more costly end, but it’s lovely to browse and not a bit snooty about you doing just that. And Episode puts ethics into everything it sells in a shop that’s heaven for teens with the patience to rummage.

Rundetaarn interior © Visit Copenhagen

Where to find the best views all-round this winter

For the best view in Copenhagen as well as the chance to admire some truly remarkable 17th century engineering, climb the spiral ramp to the top of Rundetaarn in the heart of the city. Built to celebrate Denmark’s eminence in astronomy back in the day, the viewing platform at the top is worth the hike. The museum is interesting, and kids will be equal parts enthralled and horrified looking down 25m into the tower’s hollow core through safety glass.

Six Forgotten Giants © Daniel Rasmussen

Wrap up warm and head out on a winter troll hunt

Winter isn’t really the time to hunt down Thomas Dambo’s Six Forgotten Giants: good excuse to come back in spring. However, that’s not to say you can’t find enormous, sustainable trolls at all at this time of year. See big, bearded Kaptajn Nalle hauling his boat in Nordhavn. And for outsize cuteness, Suttetrolden Sanka reclines in Remiseparken, about 20 minutes from the city centre: Thomas Dambo wrote a fairy tale to encourage toddlers to leave their pacifiers with Sanka, and it worked.

Nimb Hotel, Copenhagen City Break

Where to have a city break sleepover in Copenhagen

Where to stay Nimb Hotel is set in Tivoli Gardens and looks like a fairy tale palace. Also, views of the Christmassy park are included in your stay, and each room is individually designed to enchant.

Scandic Webers might be part of the Nordic hotel chain, but it bucks the chain feel with its large, airy rooms and bright restaurant, all designed into a grand 19th century building.

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