Families can expect royally good ski holidays at Davos-Klosters this winter

Davos-Klosters in Switzerland might be good enough for King Charles and his family, but is it good enough for yours? Andrew Dent visits and discovers charming, down-to-earth ski resorts with a warm welcome for all.

Family friendly Davos Klosters © Christian Egelmain

Is the royal favourite right for non-royal families?

The names Davos and Klosters come with some serious preconceptions. Davos is best known as the home of the annual World Economic Forum, while Klosters is forever connected to the British Royal Family. Princess Diana was hounded by paparazzi here, Wills and Kate announced their romance, and King Charles has been a regular for years. On that basis, I had to ask if it was an appropriate destination for us non world leaders and Royals simply looking for a family ski holiday. I’m happy to say the answer was, yes.

Davos, winter sunset © Marcel Giger

Even the journey to Davos-Klosters is stunning

Lets get the stats out of the way first. The ski area is situated in the east of Switzerland in the beautiful Graubünden region. It’s just a two hour train journey from Zurich Airport to Klosters and a further 30 minutes to Davos, so getting here couldn’t be easier. And it’s a stunning journey which will have kids’ noses pressed against the window the whole way.

Six distinct ski areas © klosters madrisa bergbahnen andreas butz

300km of perfect maintained piste across six ski areas

The combined area has a strong snow record due to its relatively high altitude, and there are 57 lifts serving 300km of perfectly maintained piste across six distinct ski areas. Although you will probably only need the Gotschna-Parsenn, Jakobshorn and Rinerhorn lifts in Davos, and Madrisa in Klosters. And for the more adventurous, there’s also plenty of off-piste.

Klosters Village © Andreas Badrutt

Discover why celebrities adore Davos-Klosters

We were staying in sleepier Klosters. A very stylish, understated village, it’s easy to see why Hollywood stars and royals have been coming here for generations, though we found everyone friendly and unassuming. The Hotel Alpina, our home for the few days, is directly across the road from the train station, so no need for cars. When we stayed it was the last season for local duo, Rato and Verena Conzett, retiring after 30 years as managers. You can only imagine the stories they could tell.

Seven Alpina Boutique Hotel, Klosters

Seven Alpina Boutique Hotel relaunches this winter

For the 2023/24 season the hotel is relaunching as the Seven Alpina, a collaborative partnership between Davos Klosters Mountains and the Seven Group which has recreated the property in a mountain-chic style. I’m sure they have done an amazing job, and the beautiful sun terrace will still be there: a perfect spot for an après-ski drink.

Take the train from Klosters to Davos Dorf

On our first day, after renting gear in a local Klosters’ store, we jumped onto the train for a beautiful, winding trip to Davos Dorf. From here we were straight up onto the slopes of Parsenn where I reckon there’s enough skiing to keep everyone happy for a week. Parsenn is a perfect family slope with easy lifts and casual restaurants, but make sure you take the gondola up to the top of Weissfluhjoch. Then, after a short hike, and I do mean short, you can access one of the most beautiful long runs in Europe.

Another fun snow day © Micha Meier

Watch out for the Swiss National Ski Team

On the other side from Parsenn you will find Jakobshorn, which is accessed from the Davos Platz station. Over here, there are more boarders, freestylers and après skiers, and on the day we visited the Swiss National Ski team were race training. I gave the director my credentials, but apparently the only thing holding me back from team selection was my lack of a Swiss passport. Their loss.

The sunny paradise that’s best loved by kings

Our final day was spent on the hill above Klosters -Madrisa. This has a much smaller feel to it than the slopes of Davos, but frankly it was my favourite – also King Charles’ apparently. It’s a sunny paradise with family friendly runs and lifts, and stunning views to be savoured from the sun decks of restaurants as the kids go round and round the loop of Schafcalanda T-Bar.

Great skiing and more © Martin Bissig

Spending time in Davos-Klosters is blissful

Spending time in Davos-Klosters is blissful. It feels like a world away from the actual world and I can see why Robert Louis Stevenson came here to restore his health, and write Treasure Island, 150 years ago. Our trip was rounded off with a dinner at Restaurant Wynegg in Klosters. It’s a place where it seems everyone knows everyone and that’s generally the vibe here. But don’t worry, this place really is for you too and I for one will be coming back.