Georgina Blaskey and her family escaped on a Zermatt family ski holiday in the Swiss Alps, craving big scenery, great skiing and something that felt a bit special. Did Zermatt deliver?
That Zermatt family ski holiday feeling
Sitting at around 1,620 metres above sea level, Zermatt is one of Switzerland’s most established and iconic resorts. The village centre is entirely pedestrianised, giving it a peaceful, storybook feel, with electric taxis and horse-drawn carriages replacing traffic. Towering above it all is the Matterhorn – dramatic, ever-present, and somehow even more impressive in real life.
The ski area here is vast: over 360 km of pistes, linking Switzerland and Italy, with some of the highest skiing in Europe thanks to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. Add to that superb hotels, excellent restaurants and bulletproof infrastructure, and a Zermatt family ski holiday manages to feel both grand and easy.
READ MORE: The best ski kit for kids recommended by the UK’s leading experts
Zermatt, Switzerland
A Zermatt family ski holiday by plane and by train
We flew from London to Zurich and then travelled on to Zermatt by train, booking open tickets and using the brilliantly efficient SBB app for routes and timings. It’s a fairly long journey (three hours), but also a deeply civilised one. Swiss trains are punctual and comfortable, and the whole trip felt more like a scenic experience than a transfer.
The final hour is the real showstopper: the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn, the little red mountain train that climbs steadily up through a steep-sided valley into Zermatt. This historic line has been running since the late 19th century, originally built to open up the mountains to early explorers and climbers. Today, it’s one of the most beautiful rail journeys in Europe, slowly winding through narrow gorges, pine forests, frozen waterfalls and then, suddenly, the village itself appears like something from a snow globe.
READ MORE: Best family ski resorts in Europe you can travel to by train
Hotel Schweizerhof: Relaxed Sophistication
The first two nights of our Zermatt family ski holiday were spent at Hotel Schweizerhof, a contemporary, stylish hotel a stone’s through from the train station, which is incredibly convenient after a long journey, and it’s perfectly placed for the Sunnegga lift, just a short walk away.
The hotel has a cool, modern feel, having recently been refurbished, and the spa facilities were exactly what we needed after a long day’s travel. That first evening, we ate at the hotel’s Peruvian-Japanese fusion restaurant, La Muna, which set the tone for Zermatt’s impressively international food scene.
Georgina & daughter, Zermatt, Switzerland
Day one of our Zermatt family ski holiday
On our first ski day, we headed up the mountain on the Sunnegga lift to an area ideal for easing back into things. The runs are sunny, wide and beautifully maintained: confidence-boosting and joyful in equal measure.
For lunch, we stopped at the self-service restaurant at Riffelberg, where the views are as good as the food – we tucked into a well-earned lunch of goulash soup and schnitzel. We even we spotted a bride and groom in full wedding dress regalia, skiing with their guests and a photographer. Now that’s a wedding day to remember!
That evening, we had dinner in our hotel at Schweizerhof Kitchen, an open-kitchen concept where the cooking is part of the theatre. The steak was genuinely exceptional – one of those meals that becomes part of the holiday memory – and we were grateful for the short climb up the stairs to bed!
READ MORE: How to find time for yourself on family ski holidays this winter
Family skiing, Zermatt
Day Two: Matterhorn Glacier Paradise & Italy
On our second day, we took the Furi cable car up towards Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, the highest lift station in Europe. From here, the area links directly with Cervinia in Italy, creating one of the most exciting international ski domains in the Alps. As well as fantastic snow, the skies were blue, and the pistes were gloriously empty: the joy of taking a Zermatt family ski holiday just before Christmas. In fact, we didn’t queue for a single lift all week. The runs here are long, wide and wonderfully flowing.
We crossed into Italy late morning, and stumbled across a mountain restaurant for lunch called Igloo, where we even sat outside under the midday sun with a view of the slopes. Feasting on polenta and local cheese, and the pasta of the day – a delicious ragu – it was an unexpected treat to eat on the terrace in December. We then skied all the way down to Cervinia, which was glorious; one of those days that feels properly epic without ever feeling exhausting.
Hotel Monte Rosa, Zermatt
Hotel Monte Rosa: Zermatt’s Grand Dame
The following two nights of this Zermatt family ski holiday were spent at Hotel Monte Rosa, a historically significant property. It was the first luxury hotel in Zermatt, opened in 1855, and long associated with the golden age of Alpine exploration and mountaineering. Also, many of the pioneers who mapped and climbed the surrounding peaks stayed here, including Edward Whymper, who was the first person to ascend the Matterhorn. The building still carries that sense of old-world adventure, with black and white photographs and artefacts lining the walls.
That evening, we ate at the hotel’s South American restaurant, 1818. From the spicy flavours of the Andes to the smoky grilling techniques of Argentina, every bite combines the best of this unique region with modern influences. Afterwards, we wandered through the village streets to find a little crepe hatch hidden in a wall on the main street, a perfect end to the day.
Although mornings at Hotel Monte Rosa were a highlight in themselves. Breakfast is served in a belle époque dining room that feels like stepping back in time, and under the Christmas tree, a toy train set whizzed around the base, making it feel like we had arrived in the pages of an old-fashioned storybook. It was utterly charming!
READ MORE: Big thinking Peak Retreats bring multi-family ski holidays to the French Alps
Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatt family ski holiday day three
On our final ski day, we returned to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, spending the morning on the Swiss side before once again crossing into Italy, this time skiing even further across the ski area, beyond Cervinia, all the way to Valtournenche. The sense of scale is extraordinary, and the idea that you can ski between countries before lunch never gets old, especially for teenagers who enjoy adding new countries to their annual tally.
There’s a lovely long run home from this side, with staggering scenery opening up to small hamlets and clusters of chalets. Winding through the trees, you pass the legendary Hennu Stall après-ski bar, just a short 10 minutes from the bus stop back into town, should you want a drink after a hard day on the slopes on the last run down.
After taking back our skis, we wandered through the village, exploring the shops and side streets. Zermatt’s old town is full of beautifully preserved wooden buildings, some more than 400 years old, with darkened timber facades and stone roofs that speak to the village’s farming past, long before tourism arrived.
Another beautiful ski day, Zermatt
Why Zermatt Works So Brilliantly for Families
As a family, we absolutely loved Zermatt. The scenery is dramatic and delivers a true alpine experience. At times we were skiing above the clouds, with peaks poking through like islands in a white sea – the mountains are genuinely awe-inspiring and the views of the glacier from the cable car, carving its way through the landscape, are breathtaking.
The combination of Swiss precision and Italian flair is a unique combination – breakfast in Switzerland, lunch in Italy – and the skiing is vast, varied and wonderfully uncrowded if you time it right. And then there’s the journey: that magical train ride, threading its way into the mountains, which makes arriving in Zermatt feel like entering another world entirely. It’s a place that feels adventurous, elegant and unforgettable – and one we’ll be talking about for a very long time.
READ MORE: Easter ski breaks with kids? Think Val d’Isère and start off slow
Make It Happen
How to get there
Direct UK flights to Zurich from 1 hour, 30 minutes
Zurich to Zermatt by train from 3 hours
Where to stay
Hotel Schweizerhof, Junior Suite, B&B (2 adults, 2 children) from £566 per night
Hotel Monte Rosa, Double Room, B&B (2 adults, 2 children) from £251 per night
Good to know
Travel Switzerland’s Swiss Travel Pass offers international visitors to Switzerland unlimited travel on consecutive days across the rail, bus and boat network, plus scenic routes (seat reservation fees apply) and local trams and buses in around 90 towns and cities. It also includes the Swiss Museum Pass, which grants free entry to 500 museums and exhibitions. Prices start from £229 for a three-day second-class ticket.