Down with the kids: taking a ski refresher course in gorgeous Méribel

The last time Lisa McGarry skied was on a school trip, would a Méribel ski refresher course bring memories – and skills – flooding back?

The postcard-prettiness of Méribel village

Starting again on a Méribel ski trip to remember

The last time I skied was in Year 9 on a school trip. I remember pine trees rising from the snow like a Christmas card as I dangled from a ski lift, a brief but passionate love affair with Milka bars, and the heady buzz of my first red run.

Fast forward to now, where I’ve swapped a dorm room full of schoolgirls for Chalet Luna, a spectacular penthouse chalet at Hotel Antares in Méribel: one of the group of French ski resorts that make up Les Trois Vallées, the largest ski area in the world.

Lisa on the terrace, Chalet Luna

An adventurous winter paradise in Méribel, with cosy downtime

Chalet Luna is like a festive Netflix film: sheepskin rugs and log burners, reindeer prints and cosy armchairs, all set across three floors. I half expect a grand romantic gesture on the surround terraces, complete with novelty Christmas jumpers. There’s also a private lift with spa access – sheer decadence – and the cosy Alpine style makes you want to curl up with one of the fluffy polar bear teddies, and never leave.

But leave you must, because Méribel is an adventurous paradise with everything going on: pristine slopes catering to all abilities; world class cuisine; kids’ ski camps and winter activities, as well as plentiful off-piste fun.

So, after lunch at family-run Lilie, we set off on a yoga walk in the Altiport forest. The Narnia vibes are enhanced when it begins to snow, as we expel negative energies, and feel the power of our winter wonderland. Our teacher is Argentinian but has been based in Méribel for 40 years: it has that effect on people.

Outdoor Yoga, Méribel

Méribel dining is as elevated as its slopes

That night we head to lush Le 80 in Méribel village, for tuna tartare, burrata, butter-soft steaks and proper frites. This leads to peaceful slumber in my queen-sized bed, where I’ve left the curtains open to see the mountain vista as soon as I wake up, and it’s so beautiful it feels like I’m still dreaming. You can have breakfast delivered via picnic basket at Luna, so after croissants, preserves, fresh juice and good coffee, we head out, stopping at the hotel ski shop to collect our gear.

One of the appeals of Hotel Antares is that it’s ski-out, but as a reborn beginner I get the shuttle into town, where an École Ski Français (ESF) instructor waits to escort me, via the gondola, to the ski school, then it’s time to get back to basics.

Down with the kids, Méribel

From the nursery slopes to La Folie Douce

It takes a while to regain muscle memory, and I’m several feet taller than most of the other students, but soon declared fit for green runs. The instructors are patient and encouraging, and watching how gentle and careful they are with kids is super-cute.

But before I can try, it’s lunch at après legend La Folie Douce, where I eat too much incredible food, a blend of hearty and high-end that demands to be enjoyed even in a tight ski suit. There’s an equally incredible floor show and the mood is buoyant, with champagne and oysters aplenty. The party kicks off early here, and it’s chic and excessive in equal measure, although still somewhere you can bring children.

Legendary La Folie Douce, Méribel

No Méribel ski trip is complete without a blissful spa session

The ski down is a little hairy; fresh snow equals busy slopes, and my full belly affects my balance but, despite this rookie mistake, it’s a lot of fun.

Once back at Antares, I head for the spa, which offers a range of cutting-edge face and body treatments, including a heavenly massage to sort out my achy bits. Then it’s time for a swim in the stunning pool, before retiring to the loungers for a small siesta.

We have dinner at Italian Fifi, an elegant restaurant where each dish is faultless, and we  try every dessert on the menu, with no regrets.

Clos Bernard, Altiport © Sylvain Aymoz

Skiing Altiport forest is an unmissable Méribel experience

Next morning I’m high up on Méribel Mottaret, where incipient vertigo battles my newfound confidence. But, apart from a couple of tumbles, it’s coming together.

Once we’ve skied partway down, we enter the Altiport forest, which is like something out of a wintery fever dream. Then, with flushed cheeks and wide grins, we emerge at Clos Bernard, another well known Méribel lunch spot, deep in the forest, where I attempt to glide down gracefully in front of a cool crowd lounging about in deckchairs on the sunny terrace.

On the green slopes of Méribel Mottaret

We take a horse and cart through the forest for a few more hours on green slopes and it’s starting to feel so natural I’m almost sad when it’s time to return to Antares, drop off our ski gear, and leave glorious Chalet Luna. Although the sadness is fleeting, as we move to uber-luxe Hotel Coucou, with a ski-out room, Diptyque products, a fabulous bathroom and enormous bed. Mine is a premium room, however, there’s also a private chalet for bigger groups, with its own pool.

View from the terrace, Le Coucou © Jerome Galland

The super stylish Hotel Coucou is also welcoming to families

Coucou is great for families, with a sweet kids’ club, cool teen space, and free nanny service so kids can eat together, while grown-ups dine later. The hotel also has a spa where I spend time in the jacuzzi next morning, before soaking up sun on the terrace as a DJ plays chilled jams. The morning also brings snowshoeing, which is a bit like being a yeti, covering ground ably on giant spiked sandals. Our guide really knows his forest, and once we’ve hiked some distance we stop for a breather and survey the remarkable landscape, enjoying the buzz that only comes from wholesome exercise in ‘the nature’.

Hotel Coucou, Méribel

Passion rekindled on the most successful Méribel ski trip

Méribel is one of those rare places that gets under your skin and stays there: it definitely rekindled my passion for skiing and gave me back my confidence. More than that, it’s such a wholesome but fun place to be – not just because it’s the mountains, but because of the amazing people who live there, and the incredibly high standard of dining.

So whether you’ve never skied, you’re finding your ski or snowboard legs again, or you’ve got all the moves, I can’t imagine a better place to take your winter holiday – now more than ever, it’s the all-round Alpine winner to watch.