From Poldark to ziplines: discovering charming Charlestown on the historic Cornish Riviera

Charlestown is the perfect Cornwall village and Pier House is the ideal place to stay. Natasha Harding visits with her husband and daughter.

Pier House, Charlestown

Travelling through time with Poldark in Charlestown

As you enter the village, you’ll feel as though you’ve travelled back in time. Many of the houses and cottages around the harbour were built in the 1790s and the mix of architecture with the Atlantic in the background makes for a breathtaking sight, no matter what the weather.

Years ago, Charleston was a busy working port that exported copper and China clay. These days the Georgian harbour is a film set and its Tall Ships have appeared in movies including Alice in Wonderland and Rebecca as well as many TV series: Poldark is probably the best known.

In fact, we stayed at Pier House, which featured in Poldark, and has the prime spot in the village as it’s close to the harbour and beach. The property had to close in January 2023 after a fire broke out due to an electrical fault and destroyed much of the building. However, after extensive renovations, it re-opened in June 2024. Although you’d never know they had experienced such a tragedy, as it has been lovingly restored and there is a perfect mix between old and new. Also, they serve food each day, as well as offering luxurious guest accommodation.

Bedroom, Pier House

Almost everything is about the sea in Charlestown

We stayed in the Crows Nest which is suitable for families and offers sea glimpses from the window. The massive bed took centre stage and the room was full of those lovely little touches that make you feel as though you’re staying somewhere special. We found dry robes to use during our stay on the shelves, alongside a beach bag which proved handy for an impromptu sea dip.

After we arrived, we had a coffee downstairs in the pub, which offers views of the harbour and some typically lovely Cornwall beaches. It’s a great place for people-watching and we were told that in the summer, many kids line up on the harbour wall and jump into the sea: despite the signs asking them not to!

Charlestown Harbour

A real sense of community, plus irresistible shopping

Lexi and I love to shop and had a lovely couple of hours wandering around Charlestown village and browsing in the many independent shops and boutiques, where a few pounds may have been spent.

We left the husband in The Rashleigh Arms, towards the top of the village and he was happy with his pint(s). He was also delighted to tell me that he learnt all sorts of fun facts while he was there, including that the pub’s cobbled car park was originally laid to store copper ore pre-shipping.

Being a harbour, there was lots of sea glass on the shingle beaches and we found many lovely pieces which made Lexi’s day. I had a quick dip in the sea, and can confirm that although it was freezing, it was wonderfully invigorating. Once we’d explored enough we made our way back to Pier House and got ready for the evening.

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The cosy bar, Pier House Hotel

Great food and a cosy log fire to be found at Pier House

We had a drink in the bar first, which considering it was a Monday night, was nicely busy. We were told that, although it is popular with tourists as you’d expect, they have a lot of Charlestown regulars which keeps them busy throughout the year.

They also try very hard to be a welcoming community hub and have enticing offers such as their week day set lunch from £20, and a pie and pint for £14 on a Monday night. While we were there, the wood burning stove was alight giving the room a welcoming, warm atmosphere.

Dinner is served in the restaurant and the menu is extensive. Options included sausages and mash, steak and burgers: perfect comfort food. Everything was cooked to perfection, and the restaurant had a laid-back vibe, and although the service was incredibly efficient, we didn’t feel rushed. The kids’ menu was good too, and my daughter was particularly happy with her pizza and ice cream sundae. We went back to our room very satisfied and enjoyed some quiet time before sleeping.

Ziplining over Eden, Hangloose ©Hangloose

Zipping over Eden: family attractions close to Charlestown

The next morning after a delicious breakfast in the restaurant we visited The Eden Project and Hangloose which is just three miles away from Charlestown.

Hangloose is home to England’s fastest zipline and had to be tried. We were told that you can reach speeds up to 60 mph, which was a lot for so early in the day. However, being the daredevil that I am, I couldn’t wait to get into my harness and give it a go. Lexi was a little bit unsure, but the incredible staff reassured her and she was delighted that she felt the fear and did it anyway!

She was so proud of herself for the rest of the day, that proves, that with the right support, kids really can do anything. I also had a go on the gravity giant swing but couldn’t persuade my family to try that too. Their loss!

The Lost Gardens of Heligan ©Lost Gardens of Heligan

Lost Gardens top off a beautiful Charlestown break

After the adrenaline rush we spent a calm couple of hours at the Eden Project and had a lovely time exploring the covered Biomes, home to the world’s largest rainforest.

Our tour was then completed with a visit to the Lost Gardens of Heligan which is just 20 minutes from the Eden Project. The gardens and outdoor play areas are seriously impressive and it was lovely to be there when it was quieter and less crowded. We had a fabulous visit and will definitely be back in Charlestown soon.

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