If a family holiday in Guatemala hasn’t occurred to you yet, Andrew Dent thinks you should discover Central America’s best kept secret soon, before everyone else realises it’s incredible.
Giant Kite Festival, family holiday in Guatemala
If you’re over annual Europe holidays and you’ve done the theme parks of Florida, maybe it’s time to raise the bar a little. Not long ago UK families were pushing the boat out and going as far as Costa Rica in search for the next level of adventure travel, however, might I suggest a new contender? A much more authentic (and cheaper) option for some Central America vibes: Guatemala.
Guatemala is situated right in the middle of the Central American belt. With Mexico to the West, Belize to the North, and Honduras and El Salvador to the East, it has a small Caribbean coastline and, a more popular with the surfers, Atlantic coast. You may already know about its volcanoes, coffee, rainforests, lakes and ancient Mayan sites, but how much it has to keep a family occupied for a 10-day trip might come as a surprise.
The typical way to travel to Guatemala is via a US hub, in our case, Miami, with a total journey time of around 15 hours. And upon landing, I recommend arranging a driver and going straight from Guatemala City (the commercial centre with little of tourism interest) to Antigua: it’s only a 40-minute transfer.
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La Antigua, charming base for a family holiday in Guatemala
Antigua: a charming base for a family holiday in Guatemala
Antigua is a charming Spanish colonial city, and the former Guatemalan capital, until an earthquake put paid to that 250 years ago. The first thing that strikes you here, are the volcanoes. There are three enormous ones standing guard, each around 4,000m high. The closest appears to begin right at the end of the main street and is (thankfully) dormant. However, Volcan de Fuego (Fire Volcano) is very much alive and was puffing smoke the entire time we were there.
You’ll find a good selection of hotels in Antigua, with some fancy boutique ones that befit a city on the up with luxury travellers. We stayed at characterful Hotel Las Faroles where rooms are set around a lush garden, breakfast is great, the coffee strong, and you’re walking distance from everything.
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Santa Catalina Arch, Antigua
Phones at the ready for this colourful city of photo opps
It is worth spending a day strolling around Antigua. Highlights include taking your photograph under the Santa Catalina Arch with the Volcan de Agua in the background: an iconic shot that will stand out in the family album.
Then wander through the Central Park area to soak in all the colours and watch the market traders. The excellent Museo Santiago de Los Caballero is in this area too. The building itself is very cool to walk around, and inside, the collection ranges from ancient artifacts all the way through to modern art showcasing the country’s culture.
You also have to take in the main Catedral de San Jose which dates back to the 16th century, although it’s been restored several times due to earthquakes. And no trip to Antigua is complete without a hike up to Cerro de la Cruz for a panoramic view of the city below, with the volcanoes in the distance: another great photo opportunity.
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Picaya volcano, Guatemala
A volcano hike is a highlight of any family holiday in Guatemala
After a couple of days in Antigua we had to try another of its highlights: a hike up Pacaya Volcano. This is one of the most popular and accessible volcano hikes as, at around 2,500m, Pacaya is quite a bit smaller than the ‘big three’ around Antigua.
It took us about an hour to walk to the top, but there’s also the option to rent a horse and ride up. Once at the viewing gallery you truly experience a sense of awe and respect at the power of Mother Nature. Pacaya last erupted in 2021, leaving a 2km trail of lava flow, and kids shouldn’t miss the chance to toast marshmallows in the natural rock and steam, one of many memorable moments in what is a really special, and eye-opening, family day trip.
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Atitlan Lake, Guatemala
Immerse yourself in Mayan culture on lovely Lake Atitlán
Your next adventure should be Lake Atitlán, a massive volcanic crater that forms a 12km long lake which is over 150m wide in places. It’s a stunning environment with steep, lush hillsides dotted with Mayan villages. Out of the 11 villages across the lake, you’ll probably only have time to visit three or four during your holiday, and each has something it’s famous for, from coffee and pottery to weaving.
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Pretty San Juan, another family holiday in Guatemala highlight
Take your pick of pretty lake villages and go exploring
Typically you arrive in the main tourist hub of Panajachel and from here, you take local speed boats across the lake to your chosen destination. This is quite the experience in itself and a lot of fun for kids. You should think about going early while the lake is at its calmest. But just bear in mind the boats don’t operate at night, so be sure to leave time to get back to your accommodation before sunset.
We stayed in San Pedro which is a good base, and our favourite villages were San Juan – said to be the prettiest town on the lake with its coloured umbrellas lining the main street – and San Marcos, considered to be the wellness, spiritual and hippy spot.
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Eagle’s Nest Hotel, San Marco, Guatemala
Try yoga with views or lake swimming in crystal clear waters
You have to sign up for a yoga or dance class at the amazing Eagles Nest Hotel in San Marcos, known for its stunning deck overlooking the lake and volcano.
After your class be sure to visit the nearby nature reserve of Cerro Tzankujil where you can access the lake for swimming or, for the braver, there’s a 10m high cliff jump. The water is sensational, crystal clear and, at around 22°, very swimmable. We absolutely loved our time at the lake which has a Neverland feeling to it. Plus, the people are so friendly, the food is great, and the views jaw-dropping.
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Tikal National Park, for our next family holiday in Guatemala
What we’ll do on our next family holiday in Guatemala
Sadly, our family holiday in Guatemala had come to an end. But if you can carve out two weeks then you could continue on to the Mayan sites of Tikal: a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the rainforests of the North West. The stories we heard about it were amazing, so we’ll definitely be back to discover this side of the country.
Guatemala is somewhere you need to savour, and I’m sure it’s going to become even more popular in the future. It may even go the way of Costa Rica with elevated prices and large American style resorts, although I hope not. But just in case, get planning your trip now.
It was while roasting marshmallows on Pacaya that I got chatting to a Dutch family with kids of just four and eight. They were on a six-week Central American tour and loving their time in Guatemala. They could not have been more enthusiastic as to the experience of taking their kids to this part of the world. So, heed their advice, as well as mine, and get out there, you will not regret it.
Now plan your family holiday with Visit Guatemala