Northeast Florida is a stunning treasure trove of family adventures

Last updated 28th November 2024

Not familiar with Northeast Florida yet? You should change that. From turtles and pirates to cities full of ghosts, Lisa McGarry discovers this less travelled coast is a real family adventure.

Downtown, Amelia Island

Northeast Florida adventures begin with an island full of laid-back charm

Amelia Island is like something from a John Grisham novel. Well, not quite: but he has a home here, and I can see why. This barrier island is full of dream abodes, from well-preserved colonial buildings to their immaculate modern incarnations. It’s also packed with laid-back character: quirky streets, pirate saloons, colourful shops, and beautiful restaurants serving finest Florida seafood. Even the dogs seem chill, favouring nonchalant nods over barks.

Omni Amelia Island Resort

The natural playground of Omni Amelia Island Resort

We’re staying at Omni Amelia Island Resort on Fernandina Beach, where sea turtles nest from May-October, necessitating nighttime caution. Dotted along the beach are boards sharing information about the turtles and other local wildlife, including the humpback whales and manatees which can be spotted along the coast here.

One end of our elegant suite has a terrace with ocean views across pools and boardwalks leading down to the shore, with the huge expanse of the Atlantic horizon to gave at. The other reveals miles of lush forest. It’s a huge spread: 1,350 acres, with a championship golf course, racquet park, spa, several restaurants, fire pits, and guest bikes. I can’t wait to spend the next few days here.

Salt Life Food Shack, Fernandina Beach

Eight Flags, one massage, and a lot of great food

Our first glimpse into the island’s lively (and bloody) history is the Eight Flags Tour, an informative road trip from the Timucua Indians through invasions, pirates and the shrimping industry. It’s deeply evocative, and we even see Pippi Longstocking’s house.

After a lunch stop at Garden Street Bistro, a retro yet classy spot with giant pancake stacks, crab cakes and a pretty courtyard, we visit The Ritz-Carlton Hotel for a heavenly massage and some spa time. It’s an amazing hotel with a sushi bar overlooking the ocean, and we love the wildlife conservation-themed kids’ club, with its marine murals and educational (but definitely fun) activities.

Later, we dine at Lagniappe, with unique twists on French Creole and Southern cuisine, which despite it being Monday night, is heaving with locals and tourists – not surprising, as the food is incredible, and the vibe is buzzy and welcoming.

Fort Clinch State Park

Horseback riding on the beach is a Northeast Florida must

The next day we take a guided horseback ride along miles of beach, like something from a romantic novel, with pretty steeds doing the work and our hair billowing in the breeze. After epic poke bowls at Salt Life Food Shack, we head to Fort Clinch State Park for another immersion into the past: a Civil War fort set in a pristine coastal park, which proves perfect for nature and history buffs like us.

On our last night on the island we head to the wonderful David’s Restaurant, where I try coconut seafood bouillabaisse, and the next morning it’s up early for a last breakfast at Omni’s Marché Burette: a restaurant and gourmet market which sells everything from wine-scented candles and handmade cushions to giant cookies.

: Courtyard, St. Francis Inn

: Ghosts & Gravestones Tour, St. Augustine

America’s most haunted city for sharks, spooks and eternal youth

Then it’s on to the ferry from Port George towards St. Augustine, the oldest continuously inhabited, European-established US city and also one of ‘America’s most haunted’, albeit very family-friendly. Heading south through JAX Beach and Ponte Vedra, we stop for a fossilised shark tooth hunt at gorgeous Guana River Reserve, where in 1513, Ponce de Leon came ashore to claim the land as La Florida. No teeth, sadly, but it was high tide.

Flagler College, St. Augustine © Florida’s Historic Coast

Next up is a visit to the Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park, America’s first colony, with multiple exhibits and re-enactments, including banging cannon demonstrations. We drink the – now lightly chlorinated – water, fail to turn back time, learn about Timucuan life, and take a stroll along the estuary boardwalk.

Checking in at St. Francis Inn, a 1791 Spanish colonial building in the heart of historic downtown, we’re delighted to overhear a rattled guest at reception relating some mysterious bumps in the night. Undaunted, we rock on porch swings in the pretty courtyard chatting to other guests, then grab dinner at La Cocina. It’s another winner, this time with a menu sourced from artisanal North Florida fare, and a terrace overlooking the city.

yogaloft-ximenez-fatio-house-northeast-florida

Sunrise yoga at Ximenez-Fatio House

Breakfast yoga, trolley tours, and a Wes Anderson lighthouse

An hour of sunrise yoga on the lawn at Ximenez-Fatio House, a stunning 1798 colonial building, sets us up for a tasting trolley tour led by the effervescent Judi – who, as well as knowing all the best spots to eat and drink, knows everything St. Augustine. She tailors tours to her guests: from ice cream to wine tastings, and tacos to cocktails with dessert. We laugh a lot on ours (because Judi is literally hilarious), love everything we try, and nominate her for president.

On our last night things get dark on a Ghosts & Gravestones trolley tour, giving us shivers at Potter’s Wax Museum, a spooky cemetery, and The Old Jail. Luckily, Lily, the resident St. Francis Inn ghost, doesn’t make an appearance. In the morning we visit the very Wes Anderson, St. Augustine Lighthouse & Museum. Climbing 219 steps to the top to be rewarded with a glorious vista of river, ocean and forest, complete with signature Spanish Moss drapery.

st-augustine-liighthouse-northeast-florida

St. Augustine Lighthouse

One last fort before the end of our Northeast Florida adventure

Then it’s our last stop before heading to Orlando for our flight home: a ferry ride to the Fort Matanzas National Monument and its fortified coquina watchtower. The fort once defended the southern end of the Spanish military settlement, and its 300 acres of dunes, marsh, and maritime forest, and now protects threatened or endangered species.

We search for leaping dolphins, and manatee snouts popping the surface to breathe, but no joy. Although joy is everywhere else on this incredible adventure, where it feels like we’re only just getting started.