Lakeside family luxury at Hotel Eden Roc, Switzerland’s Lago Maggiore ‘beach resort’

Discover Hotel Eden Roc in Ascona, Switzerland, it’s a perfect lakeside escape for families and adventurers alike, as Harriet Mallinson finds out.

Hotel Eden Roc in southern Switzerland sits on the pretty shores of Lake Maggiore

We’re staying at “Switzerland’s only true beach resort,” according to the website, only there seems to be no beach. When I wander beyond our hotel’s manicured garden to the edge of Lake Maggiore, I see an eyelid of potential shore washed by the waves – but you’d be hard pressed to build a bungalow out of this sand, never mind a castle.

However, minimal beach means minimal grains insinuating themselves into bikini bottoms or scattering wantonly across sun loungers. Grass underfoot makes for comfortable play and clean padding between pool, lake and towel (depending on what temperature dip you’re after); and the surrounding idyllic views of the lake, villages and mountains are far better than any mere horizon-grazing ocean vista.

On reflection, the recently refurbished Hotel Eden Roc in southern Switzerland has all the seaside perks of glistening water and ray-roasted beds without any of the beach-going hassle. But perhaps that makes for less-snappy marketing.

A boat trip out on Lake Maggiore is a great way to admire the scenery

What can families do together at Hotel Edec Roc?

The scenery and simplicity of a stay at this hotel in Ascona, not far from the Italian border, appeal most to me. I swim in one of the perfectly warm pools flowing from the spa out into the emerald garden, and the sun winks at me through the palm trees. A stone’s throw away, white sailing boats bump breezily past the front of the property like tottering models on an aquamarine catwalk.

Guests can join such watersports, too: paddleboards, pedalos and canoes populate the ship’s fleet, and you can even borrow the hotel’s motorboat for a free hour. Alternatively, BYOB (bring your own boat) and moor it in the hotel’s dedicated harbour. Whichever way you do it, zipping out onto the blue is a fine way to enjoy the beauty of this top Swiss corner of Lake Maggiore.

Ascona, Lake Maggiore

What’s the neighbouring town of Ascona like?

From here – ideally accompanied by a Champagne-laden picnic packed by the hotel – you can admire the sweep of Ascona’s promenade. The town’s cafè-trimmed shoreline is studded with knobbly plane trees as frontages of lemon yellow, dusky pink, rich ochre and minty blue lend a Mediterranean flourish. A bell tower spikes the sky while below, strolling minstrels strum guitars – O Sole Mio carrying across the bay, as wine glasses clink, laughter peals and creaking boats strain against their moorings.

Look up at the mountains flanking Lake Maggiore, and tree-encrusted slopes limbo-lean away from the gently shimmering surface, snow dripping like candle wax down their highest peaks. I watch as wispy clouds wreath the sides before the sun breaks through, daubing the verdant slopes in gold. Throw in the handsome dogs and the chirping, darting birds along the corniche, and the whole scene is stupidly, ridiculously pretty.

Food is done well at Hotel Eden Roc and comes with splendid vistas

Get out into the great Swiss outdoors with the kids

The good news is that Ascona is moments away from Hotel Eden Roc while the great outdoors is made tremendously accessible thanks to the (frankly ridiculous-sounding) Outdoor Butler. This is no Jeeves in tails, armed with a silver platter of al fresco cocktails; instead, we are greeted by a young man in hiking gear and bright orange trainers who proves to be more chirpy mountain goat than any Downton-esque manservant.

We’re taken on a glute-challenging ascent through woodlands, over thundering rivers and past a fresh spring water pool the clear green of a San Pellegrino bottle. “Ticino is a playground,” says our butler of the region, “if you love nature, this is the place to be.” At the hilltop, we drink in iced tea-paired stonking views, our muscles humming and eyes wide with wholesome pride at our slope-stomping feat.

The hotel offers a complimentary weekly programme which includes a hike (as well as e-bike tours, sunrise kayaking and visits to the hotel’s beehive, to name a few) to all its guests but the perk of an Outdoor Butler on tap is that he can tailor-make days out for anyone looking to pursue their own exclusive adventure. There are more than 300 walking routes to take, for instance – or maybe you just fancy an afternoon wine-tasting.

There’s a nature-inspired kids club at Hotel Eden Roc

What does Hotel Eden Roc’s kids’ club offer?

While these trips can be as child-friendly as families wish, there is also a nature-inspired kids club – floral wallpaper, watering cans, wooden toys – along with reading corners, painting tables and board games. There’s the chance to build a boat or dig into the garden’s biodiversity plus banana boat rides, pirate boat outings and art workshops (there’s a trampoline air games park next door to the hotel, too, if you’re raising full-throttle adrenaline-seekers).

For me, it’s the cushy serenity that hits the spot. You can drink everything from fizz to white hot chocolate at breakfast on the terrace – and then treat yourself to a massage. You can learn to water ski – before lolling by the new coastal-chic-cum-Dolce-and-Gabbana-style beach bar. You can dine akin to Wooster-level aristocracy (fish is done superbly while the crepe suzette trolley evokes drama-infused deliciousness) – and stroll it all off in Italianate splendour harbourside.

There might be no real beach at Hotel Eden Roc – but life is one.