Learning the easy way on a child-friendly city break in Porto

From palaces and pastries to surf lessons, a family holiday in Porto turns out to be a surprising learning experience for Rudolf Abraham and his daughter.

Torre dos Clérigos, a must to on a family holiday in Porto

Straddling the steep valley of the River Douro just before it whooshes into the Atlantic, Porto is a marvel of a place, at turns dazzlingly beautiful, quirky and fun, with fabulous food (and wine, obviously) and within easy striking distance of a whole slew of Atlantic beaches.

While throwing yourself into the vibrant heart of the old town might seem the obvious place to begin exploring, we were glad we started at the city’s landmark Torre dos Clérigos. Standing on its own hill (sometimes it feels like everything in Porto has its own hill), this 18th century bell tower commands sweeping views over Porto from its narrow balcony, which you reach after a climb of 225 steps. Gazing down from here puts the city nicely into perspective, before you dive into its higgledy-piggledy old town.

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Azulejos Tiles, Sé do Porto ©Rudolf Abraham

Why we fell for medieval Porto

Porto’s medieval core is a maze of steep, narrow streets and alleys cascading down towards the river below Sé do Porto, the city’s 12th century (but mainly Baroque-looking) cathedral where the highlight is a beautiful cloister, sheathed in the blue and white azulejo tiles with which so much Portuguese architecture is synonymous.

Along with the cathedral, be sure to visit Porto São Bento station which also has extensive panels of 19th century azulejo tiles, and don’t miss Igreja de São Francisco for its elaborate painted and gilded, wood-carved interior.

Perspéntico street art, family holiday in Porto ©Rudolf Abraham

Catch the street art and indulge in pastel de nata

On a narrow alley off the buzzy Rua das Flores, check out one of Porto’s best-loved pieces of street art: Perspéntico, a huge, five-storey-high blue cat by artist Liqen, carrying the weight of a city on its back.

The nearby Mercador Café has light dishes, cakes and desserts, and a quiet patio out the back. There are plenty of better-known places to indulge in a pastel de nata, Portugal’s iconic, flaky, egg custard-filled pastry, and the jury is probably out on which is best, but in my opinion, this one rules.

Palácio da Bolsa turns out to be the headquarters of Porto’s Commercial Association. Built in the 1840s, it’s a dazzlingly beautiful building with fabulously opulent decoration, including the jaw-dropping ‘Arabian Room’ and the massive Noble Staircase. Just remember, always book ahead online and make sure to select the English language tour.

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Colourful waterfront, family holiday in Porto

Explore Ribeira and have a nosy in Gaia’s cellars

Porto’s riverbanks are arguably the most wonderfully vibrant area of the city (not that there’s any shortage of contenders). Along the north bank, known as the Ribeira neighbourhood, cafés and restaurants spill out onto the cobbled waterfront promenade below multi-storeyed old houses with colourful, lopsided façades.

Gaia, the left bank, is slightly more laid back, and has grand views back across the river. As an added bonus, grown ups may well appreciate the chance to have a nosy in Sandeman and other legendary Port cellars strung along the Gaia waterfront.

Family restaurants to try on holiday in Porto

Also not to be missed while you’re on the left bank is the excellent Mercado Beira-Rio, a food court packed with places to eat offering an array of Portuguese and international cuisine, from bolinhos de bacalhau (salt cod fritters – a Portuguese staple) to polvo grelhado (grilled octopus), empanadas or pizzas.

DaTerra here is one of the city’s best vegetarian restaurants, with a good value buffet. Grab a table outside, soak up the sunshine, and if you’re lucky there may be someone performing fado or other songs in the street beside you. There was an amazing Brazilian singer when we were there, who had several customers up dancing, temporarily forgetting about their perfectly grilled octopus tentacles.

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Ponte Luíz, Porto ©Rudolf Abraham

Porto is a city of bridges, and they’re kind of amazing

That Porto is a city of bridges is undeniable, six of them span the Douro within sight of the centre. But none of them beat the Ponte Luíz I; a 45m high wroughtiron masterpiece, completed in 1886 and designed by Théophile Seyrig, the former partner of none other than Gustave Eiffel. The bridge has two decks: the lower one carries traffic, while Metro line D runs across the almost 400m-long upper deck. Pedestrians can use both decks, just keep an eye out for the Metro on the upper one as you’re taking in the view.

Traditional Porto Tram

How to get about Porto easily

On the subject of transport, always ride Tram 1 to Foz. It’s slow and generally packed, but this vintage, single-car tram is one of only two lines still operating out of Porto’s formerly much larger tram network which, at its height in the 1960s, had some 150km of track and nearly 200 tram cars.

Tram 1 runs from Infanta, out alongside the river to Passeio Alegre in Foz, at the mouth of the Douro. The views are great, and it’s well worth visiting Foz in any case, for its charming neighbourhood feel and small sandy Praia dos Ingleses beach. There’s a great beach bar here, right down at the water’s edge, and Tavi is a really nice little café and cake shop with an enclosed terrace.

If you want to save time you can make the return journey on the number 500 bus, that also runs up to Matosinhos.

Add some beach time and pools to your family holiday in Porto

As you’ll soon discover, the sea along this stretch of the Portuguese coast has a few quite boisterous waves; great for surfing (more on that in a minute) though some might find the swimming a little choppy. There are, however, plenty of other good spots to swim, with big sandy beaches, including several patrolled by lifeguards.

There’s also the Piscina das Marés; a seawater swimming pool just north of Matosinhos, set amid rugged black rocks. The pool is open until 7pm, tickets cost €6 for a half day, and there are changing rooms, toilets and a café. The easiest way to get there is by bus 507 from the city centre or catch the Metro A or F to Senhor de Matosinhos and walk. It’s a 20 minute stroll via the bridge across the River Leça, which sometimes opens to let shipping through.

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Surfing, Matosinhos, Porto ©Rudolf Abraham

When in Portugal, you have to take surf lessons

Porto’s most iconic surf beach, Praia de Matosinhos, is easily reached from the city centre too. A broad swathe of fine, pale sand and roaring Atlantic surf, it’s bookended by a 17th century fort at one end and the brutalist wall of concrete breakwater that marks the beginning of Porto de Leixões, at the other.

The reliably good waves and shallow gradient make this a perfect place to learn to surf, particularly for kids. There are several well-established surfing schools at Matosinhos, and we went with Linda de Onda who were excellent. Lessons cost 30€, last well over an hour, and include surfboard and wetsuit hire as well as instruction and close supervision by experienced, English speaking instructors.

Where to eat like a local

For a really good traditional Porto restaurant with a local feel, try A Capoeira, a small, friendly place in Foz, with outstanding food. The short menu has a handful of mainly seafood dishes along the lines of roasted salt cod with onions and boiled potatoes, or hake fillets with rice and French fries, plus large salads, and steaks. You’re best to reserve a table as it gets booked up both at lunchtime and in the evening.

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NH Collection Porto Batalha

Where to stay on a family holiday in Porto

Then live like a local (albeit from a bygone age) at NH Collection Porto Batalha which is set in a restored 18th century palace and makes a perfect base for exploring Porto. It’s just a 6-minute walk to Bolhao Metro station (from where line E runs to the airport) and roughly the same from Porto São Bento station or the cathedral. Go for one of the rooms overlooking the square – there are also family rooms sleeping three and interconnecting rooms sleeping four. The breakfast buffet is good too and expansive, plus, there’s also a spa and swimming pool, as well as a nice, friendly bar by the lobby. Alternatively, nearby NH Collection Porto Jardim is another good family hotel, this time with the added bonus of a small rooftop plunge pool gazing out over Porto.

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