A Naples city break gives you atmosphere in spades, Pompeii on the doorstep and, arguably, Italy’s best pizza. Rudolf Abraham and his daughter did a lot in a long weekend. Here’s how.
National Archaeological Museum of Naples © Rudolf Abraham
Start your Naples city break in the Spanish Quarter
For an unforgettable, head-over-heels immersion in all things Italian, nothing conjures up Naples more vividly than its Quartieri Spagnoli, or Spanish Quarter. Think narrow, inclined streets lined with colourful market stalls and cafés, small grocery shops, windows with laundry hanging above them, and a never-ending succession of mopeds flying past.
This is also where you’ll find the best street art to add to your Naples city break, including the famous Maradona mural on Via Emanuele de Dio. And while you’re here, don’t miss La Dolcezza Degli Dei, a fabulous little chocolate shop just off Piazza Caritá.
Spanish Quarter, Naples © Rudolf Abraham
Authentic Neapolitan pizza is the must-eat in Naples
Although the must-eat in Naples is, of course, genuine Neapolitan pizza, and Pizzeria Mazzotti on Piazza Caritá is one of the very best. ‘Naples is pizza, pizza is Naples,’ so said its owner, Paolo Surace, when I interviewed him a few years ago.
The true Neapolitan crust is a revelation – poke it with your finger and it will spring back up. If it doesn’t, another of the most respected pizzamakers in Naples once told me, only half jokingly, you should probably just leave. Conversely, the base should be almost wafer thin, and smothered with delicious sauce and fresh toppings which scream Mediterranean sunshine: we can highly recommend courgette flowers.
Pizzeria Mattozzi, Naples ©Rudolf Abraham
Then, because there is simply no such thing as too much pizza on a Naples city break, we suggest you try the simply named Al22 Pizzeria. Their eggplant parmigiana is also impressive and frankly should win awards – even my non-aubergine-eating 14-year-old put aside her prejudices and stole half of mine. Something to note when you’re seeking out a pizzeria: look for accreditation by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, it’s the official mark of authenticity.
Via del Tribunali, Centro Storico, Naples
But Naples isn’t just pizza, so make sure you try some sfogliatelle, the city’s irresistible signature pastry. Think a mouthwateringly good custard crème filling, wrapped in the crispiest, flakiest pastry known to humankind. It’s best eaten warm, and inevitably followed by the need to order another one. Can you tell I’m a fan? Street vendors sell them, or even better, grab one of the tables at Caffe Leopoldo Infante on Via Toledo, which will also tempt you with impeccable coffee, gelato to die for, and big wedges of cake.
View of Vesuvius and Bay of Naples
Where to find the best views fast on a Naples weekend break
To walk off all those carbs, and make sense of Naples’ phenomenally compressed and exquisitely chaotic topography – dictated by sitting between a volcano and the sea – you have to see the city from above. So climb up from the Spanish Quarter to Corso Vittorio Emanuele. The views from here are stupendous, taking in the whole sweep of the city, with Vesuvius rising on one side, and the Sorrento peninsula and Capri out across the Bay of Naples.
Centro Storico street art, Naples ©Rudolf Abraham
Centro Storico is another atmosphere-laden part of Naples, where kids can’t resist the marvellous maze of narrow alleys and cobbled squares.
Pulcinello, Centro Storico, Naples © Rudolf Abraham
It’s also here that you’ll find the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, as well as the famous statue of Pulcinella – rub his nose for good luck. Although, our particular Centro Storico recommendation is Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo. If you only visit one church in Naples, make it this one and don’t be put off by the austere facade. The interior is a vast, soaring, hushed and genuinely breathtaking Baroque wonder, and it was undoubtedly a highlight of our Naples city break.
Street art flourishes in the historic quarter too, along with a host of vendors selling street food and Naples-inspired kitsch. And if you’re looking for the entrance to the Underground Naples tours, it’s in this district as well.
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Underground Naples tour ©Rudolf Abraham
Head underground and tunnel through ancient history
I have to admit, the fun of these tours was one of the best surprises on our Naples city break.
Set about 40m below street level, they follow a small part of the estimated 450km of abandoned tunnels which are carved out of soft volcanic rock under the city – an astonishing 2 million square metres in total. The experience isn’t really suited to younger kids, but older ones will be fascinated to hear about 2,400 years of Naples’ history from the time of the ancient Greeks – who originally quarried the tunnels to build their newly-founded city above – through subterranean Roman aqueducts to their most recent incarnation as air raid shelters during WWII.
The tours last around two hours and my advice is to book online, as this is one of the most popular things to do in the city and slots sell out fast, especially during summer.
Pompeii, a must-do on any Naples city break
How to work Pompeii into a short Naples city break
It’s a given that the biggest archaeological draw in and around Naples is Pompeii, but before you head out of the city to the remarkable site itself, visit the National Archaeological Museum of Naples to gaze on some of Pompeii’s rescued treasures. Among the wonders here are the dazzling mosaics from the Casa del Fauno – one of Pompeii’s grandest palaces – along with other mosaics from Herculaneum, and sculptures the size of giants from the celebrated Farnese Collection: some of the finest examples of Greco-Roman art in the world.
The Granary, Pompeii
Pompeii is doable in a day, but try for longer
We visited Pompeii for half a day, but you could easily spend a lot longer, as the site is vast. How vast is hard to comprehend until you’re there, but keep the words ‘entire ruined city’ in your mind and you have an inkling of the scale.
It’s fair to say that there is probably nowhere else that brings the ancient Roman world to life more vividly for kids than this archaeological marvel, and everyone seems to know it, so we were relieved to discover they put a daily cap on visitor numbers, which means it’s always busy, inevitably, but it doesn’t feel too overwhelming.
Villa of the Mysteries, Pompeii
Don’t miss the spectacular Villa of the Mysteries
That said, it’s another one to book online, especially on a short Naples city break, and you definitely want to get tickets which include the suburban villas, because on no account should you miss the breathtaking two-millennia-old frescoes at the Villa of the Mysteries.
Getting to Pompeii is easy, just take a direct train from Napoli Piazza Garibaldi station, underneath Napoli Centrale, to Pompeii station, then catch the shuttle bus to Porta Marina, the site’s main entrance.
Remember to take snacks, water (the cafe at Pompeii tends to be packed to overflowing) and hats, as well as sunscreen. And on the train ride back, sit on the left, and you’ll be treated to a sunset across the Bay of Naples.
Omnipresent scooters, Naples © Rudolf Abraham
Where to stay and charm teens on a Naples city break
Speaking of sunsets, Naples is awash with places to sleep and we were delighted with our choice of excellent Le Corti del Re in the Spanish Quarter.
A B&B on the upper floors of an old apartment building, it features comfortable and newlydecorated double, twin and family rooms. The feel is friendly and welcoming, and it’s within easy walking distance of Centro Storico. Just be aware, as in any older Neapolitan apartment building worth its salt, there’s a very small lift, but I can testify that teenagers find it quaint.
How to plan a Naples city break
How to get there
Direct UK flights to Naples from 2 hours, 40 minutes
Where to stay
Le Corti del Re, Family Room, B&B (2 adults, 2 children) from £143 per night
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