Les Menuires: this summer mountain holiday is a perfect tonic for families

You might know Les Menuires for family ski holidays, but turns out it’s great fun for summer breaks too. Andrew Dent spent a long weekend there recently and loved every minute.

Lac de l’Etelé, Belleville Valley ©Vincent Lottenberg

The mountains are for skiing, right? Half right. It turns out the mountains also come alive in the summer months, and make for an amazing family holiday. There has been a quiet revolution going on in your favourite winter ski resort while you weren’t looking. They have been creating ziplines, mountain bike trails, food festivals, yoga festivals, golf courses and much, much more.

Saint-Martin-de-Belleville ©Vincent Lottenberg

Les Menuires has a fresh take on family summer holidays

Of course, this has been partly driven by climate change and a need for resorts to pivot away from relying entirely on the (diminishing) snowy months. But the same climate change is in fact drawing families to the mountains in the summer. With wildfires and 50° temperatures in the Mediterranean, wouldn’t you rather be in the clean air and comfortable 20-25° mountain sunshine?

So, to see what it is all about I headed to Les Menuires in the Belleville Valley, one of the lesser-known resorts in Les 3 Vallées, sitting below Val Thorens and above Saint-Martin-de-Belleville.

Les Menuires itself is not going to win any beauty contests. It dates back to the 1960s and the architecture reflects that period. I was staying in the now famous Brelin Building, recognised as an historically important development and part of the post-war French Plan Neige, which was all about getting the French active and into skiing. During the winter it’s ski in/ski out, and in the summer it offers a commanding position overlooking the village and some jaw dropping views across the valley.

The Belleville Valley is a two hour transfer from Geneva so easily manageable for a long weekend which is what I had to enjoy it all. It is possible to do it without a car, but for more than a few days you would probably be best to hire one.

Read more: A magical experience to have with kids in Belleville Valley this summer

Beach volleyball, Les Menuires ©Vincent Lottenberg

There’s so much to do in the village, from BMX tracks to beach volleyball

As soon as you arrive at the base village level of Les Menuires, at 1850m, you immediately see a festival of activity. There’s a BMX track for younger kids, archery targets being peppered by children and adults alike, as well as a full-on game of ‘beach’ volleyball happening.

A bit further over is the Mountain Coaster, a really exhilarating 500m ride down the mountain, rollercoaster style. If that is all a bit too active for you, there’s a great selection of bars and restaurants to sit down at and support from the side lines.

I settled down with a cold drink and took it all in. It was good to see that the main gondolas out of town were working and there was a steady stream of hikers and bikers going up, to enjoy the walk or ride down. Of course, you can ride the gondolas down also, and many do, after taking in the views from the top. A lift pass will cost you from 9€ per ride and there are extra discounts with the Passeport Ascensionnel.

Read more: Mountains to the max: summery Les Arcs switches to family activity holidays

Les Menuires ©Maximilien Bree

Les Menuires also costs a lot less during the summer months

On that note, one of the things you notice immediately is that everything seems very good value compared to when you are here in the winter. The accommodation is at least 50% less per night, with much more availability, just keep an eye out, as not all hotels open during summer.

The food at the restaurants is reasonable and many of the activities are covered by the ‘Activities Pack’: available when you book accommodation. My accommodation was self-catering, so I stocked up at the local convenience store which was handy. Although don’t let that mean you avoid the bakeries and delicatessens in the base village where you will find some mouth-watering offerings.

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Morning yoga, Les Menuires ©Vincent Lottenberg

Wellness feels even better in this privileged setting

Next morning I wake up to stunning views across the valley, energised by the mountain air. Unsurprisingly, wellness has become a big deal with respect to summer in the mountains. So I headed off to an outdoor yoga class.

I can’t tell you how amazing it is to do yoga next to a river with breathtaking views, versus a sweaty, central London yoga studio. Even without the excellent yoga instruction you’re already taken to a state of zen just by the setting.

Read more: Born to re-wild: families will love this wild weekend at Broughton Sanctuary

Lac du Lou, Belleville Valley ©Vincent Lottenberg

Take a hike to beautiful Lac du Lou and make time for lunch

After yoga it is straight off for a hike. There are of course all sorts of hikes you can choose and many opt to take the lifts to the very top and hike down, or across ridges. Instead, I chose to walk up a well marked trail to what I was assured was the beautiful Lac du Lou, with an equally fine restaurant at the top, the Refuge du Lac du Lou.

The trail was moderately tough and certainly got my heart rate up. The temperature was also a decent 25°, so I was ready to jump into the lake once I got there.

However, I was advised against that, as it was in fact bitterly cold snow melt, although that didn’t seem to bother some of the local kids. I settled for a circuit of the lake which took about 30 minutes and then took my table for lunch. After lunch we hiked back down, taking it slowly to soak it all in.

Read more: Homegrown Himalayas: how to go hiking with children in Eryri National Park

La Bulle des Bruyères, Les Menuires

Summer in Les Menuires leaves more room to relax

Once back in town we stopped by Maison de l’Abeille Noire et de la Nature beekeeping museum, rode La Mine mountain coaster and then headed to La Bulle des Bruyères wellness centre across the road.

I generally find that during winter I never use these sort of facilities. What with a full days skiing and some après, it’s time for dinner at the chalet before you know it. So, it was nice to wander into the spa area at 4pm and enjoy a long soak, spa, sauna and steam room. The pool and spa at La Bulle des Bruyères is a really good set up and costs 6,80€ with the Passeport Ascensionnel. After all that yoga, hiking and spa-ing, believe me, you will be ready to hit your bed.

Read more: 11 most magical places to take kids before they grow up

Mountain e-biking, Les Menuires ©Vincent Lottenberg

Mountain e-biking lets you take it as easy as you like

The next day we had set aside for mountain biking. If you haven’t caught on yet, mountain biking has fundamentally changed over the last few years. The advent of the e-bike has levelled the field for all, and the heavy older bikes of ten years ago have been replaced by much lighter family friendly versions. Now everyone, old and young, can go at the same pace, up the same gradients.

If you want a work out, just turn down the electric assistance. If you want to cruise, well, you know what to do. Rental bikes are good value at 40€ per person for a half-day. I recommend taking a guide, they will review the group dynamics quickly and select the trails that suit your group.

We started from Saint-Martin-de-Belleville and went high into the valley, well away from any cars or most people. Although we still managed to find a charming mountain café for a little break. We then returned via trails along the river. It was so much fun and a great feeling of excitement as well as a decent workout, in my case.

Read more: Pedal Pioneers: try France’s incredible new cycle route with kids this summer

Le Jardin Chez Pépé Nicolas ©Vincent Lottenberg

Don’t miss lunch and more views at Chez Pépé Nicolas

After an excellent morning of biking, you’ve no doubt earned a fine lunch, and no visit to Les Menuires is complete without going for lunch at Chez Pépé Nicolas.

This is a great family visit and the kids will love it; there are all sorts of animals to see and pet as you walk around the farm. When it comes to the restaurant, try and book one of the tables on the front row overlooking the valley. They truly are tables with view. Just remember, reservations are a must.

Post lunch we chose to ride the main gondola up to the highest point of the resort, at 2,300m it’s the same highest point as it would be in winter. The ride up is spectacular as are the 360° views from the viewing platform. I did find it a bit strange being at the top of a mountain and not setting off on my skis for the nearest red run. If I had more time, I would certainly have walked back down, or across a few ridges at least. But this would take most of a day and is more serious hiking, so you’d want to be prepared.

Read more: Your essential family guide to all 15 National Parks in the UK

Vallée des Encombres ©Vincent Lottenberg

We did a lot in a weekend, but will definitely be back for more

It is worth noting that there are plenty of other activities to try in the mountains. One we would have done with more time would be the Via Ferrata of Levassay. This is a two hour excursion and very family friendly. There are all sorts of rock-climbing options, ziplines and even parapenting to turn your hand to.

I would highly recommend booking a mountain break this coming summer. There is so much to do that everyone in the family will be happy. It is a healthy mix of active and wellness, both mental and physical, washed down with some great food and drink. It’s also excellent value and easily accessible, and there is no doubt in my mind that it will become a staple of the UK family holiday calendar in the future, with good reason. Enjoy.