Bordeaux balances grandeur with southwest France warmth and it’s also one of the country’s most liveable cities, so families feel right at home, even for just a weekend. Seonaid McGill
Le Marché de Noël de Bordeaux ©Bordeaux Tourism
Marché de Noël, Bordeaux
If you’ve ever hankered after Galeries Lafayette gift wrapping skills, Le Marché de Noël de Bordeaux is where to pick them up this November and December.
Apart from imparting the secrets of flouncy bows and razor-sharp creases, this cosy market on Place de Quinconces is also the place to stuff yourself silly on flammekueche and aligot while getting an eyeful of stilt walkers and acrobatic elves.
Expect some wide-eyed wonder from your kids at the traditional carousel opposite Le Grand Théâtre, as well as the animated deer. And of course there’s shopping, with over 100 stalls selling everything from artisan glass baubles to mountains of marzipan fruit.
CAPC Musée d’Art Contemporain ©Léo Le Ray-Ters
Cool kids’ space and good for grown-ups too
Here’s a thing: CAPC in Bordeaux has one of the best collections of contemporary art in France. Housed in a former 19th century warehouse – the distractingly beautiful building itself is reason to go – the permanent display includes works by everyone from Keith Haring to Max Neuhaus.
It also hosts some astonishing temporary exhibitions year round, and regular Week-End Kids combines art-based-fun for two to 11 year olds with workshops and events for teens that fit easily into a weekend in Bordeaux.
Chartrons ©Bordeaux Tourism
Make like a posh villager in Bordeaux’ quaintest quarter
If the rest of Bordeaux doesn’t have you eyeing up estate agents’ windows, Chartrons certainly will.
In a city that does a nice line in austere grandeur, this district is about as quaint as it gets and works the village angle unashamedly. It’s also posh in a soignée way that’s very Bordelaise, and when you want good coffee and vintage shops, they’re here.
If you only walk one street, make it ridiculously photogenic Rue de Notre-Dame where antique dealers rub shoulders with one of the city’s loveliest churches. But I’ll put good money on this quartier seducing you into lingering a lot longer than you intended.
Bassin de Lumières, Bacalan
Compare and contrast Chartons with Bacalan
Gutsy Bacalan couldn’t be more different from Chartrons. Once the northern no-go area, La Cité du Vin changed all that with a building that updated Bordeaux’ slightly snooty wine rep with a single architectural swirl.
You might want to save that for a kid-free weekend, in which case do the Bassin à Flot bit of Bacalan instead. Start with the Bassin de Lumières where the mission is to immerse you completely in art and sound: so far everyone from Tutankhamun to Dali has been given the treatment.
Then you want to snack and stroll, so head to Halles des Bacalan for the market that promises at least 85% of its produce comes from SW France, then saunter along the banks of the mighty Garonne, like you’re a local.
Miroir d’Eau, Place de la Bourse ©Bordeaux Tourism
Mirror, Mirror on the ground
Even in Southwest France, it’s a little too chilly for kids to strip down to their scants and prance around in the Miroir d’Eau in winter, but guaranteed once they’ve had eyes on this king of water features, they’ll be lusting after a summer visit.
That said the water is only 2cm deep, so a mini-splash is a must. Although, what you really want to witness is the fog effect generated across the entire granite surface. It looks phenomenal, particularly as it gives way to a glacial calm when the surface of the water perfectly mirrors the 18th century Place de la Bourse: UNESCO World Heritage Site and Bordeaux icon par excellence.
Wave Surf Café, Bordeaux
Catch waves in the heart of Bordeaux all year round
The Landes Coast has some of Europe’s best surfing beaches about an hour from Bordeaux. Still, it’s unlikely your kids will be up for braving the Atlantic in winter, so The Wave Surf Café is the next best thing.
Yes, you can have coffee, but the big draw here is a huge wave pool where kids aged eight and over can take surf lessons or just surf. Alternatively you’re welcome to watch local dudes doing their thing instead. Either way, it’s fun, and just as friendly as most surf spots the world over.
Le Magasin Général, La Bastide
Everything and everyone stops for lunch in France
With a nod to teens and cute tents and toys for younger kids too, I recommend you do lunch at Le Magasin Général in La Bastide (just across the river from Chartrons). The industrial space – cut with plump armchairs, hanging bikes and many strategically placed vintage Anglepoise – begs to be filmed, and the food is all organic. Also, should the sun be shining, the terrace gives the interior a run for its money on dramatic design.
Bordeaux might love a bistro, few younger kids feel the same. So unless you’re with teens, Café Joyeaux in Chartrons is the place to pitch up for pancakes, superior hot chocolate and a space big enough to absorb the most boisterous toddler. The food is made from local ingredients and the café employs kitchen and waiting staff with cognitive disabilities, so it’s big on genuine warmth and lots of smiles.
Les Sources de Caudalie
Where to stay in Bordeaux
Eklo Hotel in La Bastide is an affordable gem. Kids will love the cabin-style bunkbeds and off-beat design here. Its restaurant is laid-back for lunch or dinner, and family brunch on Sunday is eat-all-you-can. Family Room, B&B (2 adults, 2 children) from £150 per night.
Les Sources de Caudalie, at the other end of the spectrum, is about 30 minutes outside Bordeaux in the countryside responsible for all that wine. Five-star and luxe, but very chill with kids, this may be the treat you deserve this winter. Prestige Suite (2 adults, 2 children) from £1,063 per night.