How to arrange unforgettable on a family holiday in Vis Island, Croatia

A working week for Caroline Milns turns into an unforgettable Croatia family holiday at gorgeous Villa RoseMari on the island of Vis, under two hours from Split by ferry.

Vis Island, Croatia

It was just before the pandemic that we developed the interior concept for a sublime seafront villa on the Adriatic island of Vis, the farthest inhabited island off mainland Croatia and one of the most quietly authentic islands in the Mediterranean.

After working with local and international architects on their ambitious new build, our clients Vanya and Daniel had approached our London-based design business, Zulufish, to develop the interior design. Yet, with the build happening during Covid, we had never had the opportunity to visit, so it was with a mix of anticipation and déjà-vu that we finally opened the gorgeous courtyard doors of Villa RoseMari this summer, armed with suitcases full of finishing touches for a week’s stay, combining a photoshoot with a Croatia family holiday.

Villa RoseMari, Kut, Vis Island

Villa RoseMari, an idyllic Croatia family holiday home on the island of Vis

The villa had been ten years in the making, Vanya having spotted the opportunity to buy a small seafront plot a stone’s throw from her parents’ house in Kut: the most sought after locale of the eponymously named Vis town.

Vis Island, Croatia

Renowned locally as the oldest “new” house on the island, the couple’s attention to detail led them to source old stone cladding from a derelict building on the mainland, then have it cut and shipped to the island. As a result the villa appears to have stood sentinel over the sea for centuries, disguising a thoroughly modern space within.

Master Suite, Villa RoseMar, Vis Island

The villa spreads out over four floors with the monochromatic master suite spanning the entire top floor, and three further ensuite bedrooms on the first floor.

The semi-basement sits below sea level and houses a colourful home cinema and games room with an on-trend luminous blue pool table.

Dining terrace, Villa RoseMari

Idyllic Vis Island is mind’s eye Mediterranean perfection

The open plan split-level ground floor pairs a snug and shaded Moroccan-inspired courtyard (perfect for escaping the heat on a Croatia family holiday in summer) with a kitchen and diner that has glorious sunset light pouring in at aperitivo hour.

We also enjoyed wonderful sunset dinners on the raised terrace that hovers above a small pebble beach with a jetty reaching out into the bay, where a flotilla of luxury yachts and power boats gently bob on the westerly breeze.

It’s a perfect picture postcard of the Med, with crystal clear waters ideal for an early morning dip or paddleboard (the villa comes with a paddleboard for guests) around the large horseshoe bay, backdropped by hills of gnarly pine, carob trees and wild rosemary.

Atmospheric Vis Town is relatively new on the Croatia family holiday map

It’s a far cry from 30 years ago when Vis was still a key military outpost of Yugoslavia, and the battleship grey boats in the bay were not just a different hue, but a different class altogether.

But, as the farthest inhabited island off the coast of Croatia, Vis has been strategically important for millennia. After World War II, when Yugoslavia became a socialist republic, the island retired from the world stage and became one of the country’s primary military and naval bases. Foreign visitors were barred from entry in the 1950s, and the entire island economy re-geared towards supporting the military. It was not until Yugoslavia’s collapse in 1992 that Vis pulled back the curtain.

And what a view. With its time-worn cobbled streets and beautiful 15th century limestone Venetian architecture, ruined old palazzos and dramatic courtyard gardens, the island appears frozen in time.

There are two main towns, the eponymous Vis with its port on the east coast, and the fishing town of Komiza to the west. In fact, the island is so richly authentic and full of charm, it stood in for the fictional Greek island of Kalokairi in Mamma Mia 2: Here We Go Again.

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Captain Neven, Croatia family holiday

Hiring a private boat for the day turns out to be teen heaven

The best way to get a full sense of the place is to do a boat tour. Neven, our captain for the day, picked us up direct from our jetty – what a luxury – and the four teens in our party immediately spread out to sunbathe with abandon on the bow cushions.

First stop was an old submarine tunnel. Built during the Cold War, when it was completely camouflaged from satellite view, today it’s a highlight of both boat and military tours: at 120m long and 18m high it is eerily ethereal.

We chugged in by boat with our whispered voices echoing up and down the tunnel, before confronting our fears, leaping in off the high sides, and swimming up the full length into the dark void, as swallows swooped overhead.

Fort George

A little light learning, epic views and historic island forts

As we sailed, Neven filled us in on some of the military history of the island, which has over 10km of tunnels, fortifications and caves that can be explored by quadbike or on Land Rover tours. Another military-themed highlight is sunset drinks at Fort George, built by the British during the Napoleonic wars, it’s now beautifully restored and has epic views across Vis harbour and out into the Adriatic.

Blue Cave, a must do on a Croatia family holiday

The Blue Cave is always the Croatia family holiday highlight

However, the real highlight on any Vis boat tour has to be a visit to the Blue Cave. Designated a UNESCO Geopark in 2019, it’s actually on the tiny island of Biševo, just across the water from Komiza. The journey over was bumpy, which delighted the kids who happily bounced around on the padded sun deck.

Since 2019, access to the cave has been strictly controlled, so we bought our tickets and boarded a dedicated low-slung boat piloted by a bubbly Aussie-Croat called David, who took us round the headland to what seemed like an impossibly small entrance in the cliff wall.

Ducking our heads and holding our breath, we were suddenly through, as David manoeuvred us gondola style towards the cave’s mesmerising blue light. It was truly otherworldly, although the blue glow is simply a result of sunlight under the submerged limestone cliff face bouncing off the sandy seabed.

Pre-2019 you could enter with your own boat, or dive down under the cliff in what was a right of passage for the islanders. David talked us through how he would dive down a couple of metres then swim under the hanging rock before kicking up and into the cave.

We were lucky enough to have it to ourselves on our Croatia family holiday, but in high season it gets very busy, so choose your timing wisely to miss the specialist tours from both Vis and nearby Hvar.

Granny’s Pants rock formations

Europe’s smallest beach is possibly the world’s loveliest picnic spot

Next stop was the “smallest beach in Europe”, a tiny cove that triangulates to a gorgeous thigh-high basin of water and postage-stamp-size pebble beach. Neven expertly piloted us right into the mouth of the cove and tied the boat onto the cliff wall for an idyllic picnic lunch spot.

The limestone cliffs, bluffs and beaches that define the south coast are remarkable, the kids particularly enjoyed “granny’s pants”, a striking natural sculpture that resembles a pair of thighs and bloomers.

Don’t miss Stivina Beach on a Croatia family holiday in Vis

The most famous of all Vis’s beaches is Stivina, heralded as one of the top beaches in Europe and the setting for a romantic boat ride with the young Donna and Sam in Mamma Mia 2. This small beach is encircled by dramatic sea cliffs – perfect for cliff jumping – creating an inner and outer lagoon with caves eroded from the cliffs.

As is the case all around the island, the water is crystal clear and Neven suggested we throw a clump of bread into the water as, “fish will come up like piranhas”. We jumped in and watched as shoals of black-tailed sea bream raced around us. It’s a truly spectacular spot to while away an afternoon.

You can also drive across and walk down to the beach, but it’s an arduous 30 minute trek down a steep cliff face, so it’s best to arrive by boat if possible. It really is a very special place, with a small taverna and so much natural beauty.

It’s a good idea to hire a car to explore the southern coastline, nothing is more than a twenty minute drive away through the verdant interior full of vineyards, olive groves and farmland. Vis produces some of Croatia’s top wines and olive oils and there are many vineyards to visit.

Srebrna Beach, Croatia

Here We Go Again: Srebrna Bay is another Mamma Mia 2 star

There are also numerous other beaches on the south coast. Srebrna (silver) Bay gets its name from the silvery glow of the pebbles as they shimmer on the edge of the sea, and was the setting for a moonlit stroll for young Donna and Sam in Mamma Mia 2. From Srebrna, it’s a short walk over to Diamond Beach: both beaches have large slabs of South-facing stone that are glorious for sunbathing.

Komiza, Croatia

Romantic Komiza is worth a drive for its Venetian vibes and starry restaurants

One unmissable evening out is a visit to the fishing town of Komiza. It’s a short 15 minute journey from Vis, but the hairpin bends down to the town make for a really breathtaking drive.

Many of the town scenes from Mamma Mia were filmed on the tight, winding cobbled streets that date back to the 15th century when the island was part of the Republic of Venice, and there are a couple of stand-out restaurants, movie fans will want to visit, like Jastožera, where Harry and Bill reminisced over dinner.

Konoba Bako restaurant, Komiza

A stroll round Komiza Harbour is another Croatia family holiday memory maker

However, we went for Bako next door, which was the locals’ tip and has a glorious wood-fire grill for baking squid, fish and meats, as well as a large terrace right at sea level. We were serenaded by the dolorous tones of local singers, reminiscent of a Welsh male voice choir, as the sun set and the skies glowed pink: another wonderful Croatia family holiday memory. Save room for an ice cream in the harbour, while you stroll and people watch.

Vis Harbour, Croatia

The main seafront streets of both Komiza and Vis are pedestrianised, and perfect for promenading. During the summer Vis especially is home to hundreds and hundreds of yachts, from super to sporting, and many of the tiny houses along the cobbled streets have been repurposed as jewellery shops, fashion boutiques, delis and wine shops.

A couple of our favourite spots to stroll to from the villa were Issa’s smoothie bar, whose matriarch makes glorious acai bowls for breakfast, along with tantalising Dubai chocolate bites. Or Frutariya, which serves the best coffee in Vis.

By the end of our week long Croatia family holiday we felt utterly relaxed and totally at home, the kids already asking about the sequel; borrowing a phrase from Mamma Mia and pleading to go again.