Sailing round the remote islands of Raja Ampat in Indonesia with Rascal Voyages, Andrew Dent learns to dive and picks up some valuable life lessons too.

Rebel anchored in Raja Ampat, Indonesia
It doesn’t get much more ‘off the beaten track’ than Raja Ampat in Indonesia
As a travel journalist you are often offered the opportunity to ‘get away from it all’, ‘go off the beaten track, ‘try something unique’ or, a favourite one over recent years, ‘experience pared back luxury’. Not everywhere delivers the reality of any of the above. However, my latest experience delivered all of them, and then some.
Firstly, it is a good sign when I have to go and look up where is even close to the destination. The remote islands of Raja Ampat in Indonesia are exactly that, remote. The archipelago consists of hundreds of jungle-covered islands sitting to the north of Western Papua, basically, due north of Darwin, Australia. Yes, it’s a schlep to get there: four hours on from Jakarta, which itself is over 18 hours from London. But it is worth it.

Sun deck, Rebel, Indonesia
Rebel is a luxurious home away from home
We join our ‘live aboard’ yacht in the port town of Sorong, it’s called Rebel, and is the second yacht in the Rascal Voyages collection.
There are not many tourist boats that operate in these waters, but Rebel is the most luxurious of them all. The five spacious cabins are all set above the waterline and are beautifully designed and proportioned. The moment you arrive you feel the warm Indonesian hospitality of the 20 or so staff. This really is a (more luxurious) home away from home.
Our voyage was to be five nights exploring the Raja Ampat islands while learning about the marine conservation work Rascal Voyages supports via NGO, The Sea People.
Raja Ampat is considered to be one of the world’s most renowned areas for marine biodiversity and coral reefs and, as such, it is no surprise that it’s a bucket list destination for scuba divers. This presented a personal dilemma, as I had managed to persuade myself over the years that I didn’t need to learn to dive, I could see all I needed to see in the ocean with a snorkel and mask. That was all about to change.

Ideal learn to dive conditions, Raja Ampat, Indonesia ©The Sea People
What changed my mind about learning to dive?
Day one set the tone for the adventure. After a delicious breakfast, there is a briefing in the galley area by the Voyage Manager, Lisa, who is not only a wonderful host, but also a qualified marine biologist. The briefing tells the group the plan for the day, likely water conditions and what to look out for underwater: the first day is a snorkel to get everyone comfortable with the water.
We are zipped away from Rebel in the smart tender and taken to the site where it is immediately obvious, once I put my mask under the turquoise water, that this place is unlike anything I have experienced before. This is what it looks like to be in one of the remotest oceans on earth. There are fish everywhere, and after an hour I had to practically be dragged out of the warm water, so transfixed was I by what lay beneath. It was there and then I decided I had to go further and finally advance to scuba diving.

Perfect diving weather, Raja Ampat, Indonesia
Tropical seas are the perfect conditions to fall in love with diving for the first time
Rascal Voyages offer diving from the age of 10, so it’s perfect for families. They also provide a ‘Discover Scuba’ option for those without a PADI certificate, which means you can have the full experience and descend to 12 metres. So the next day, with some trepidation, I set off with one of my fellow travellers and Yeri, the dive master on the Rascal. It certainly helps to do the first 30 minutes of instruction in knee deep tropical water off a remote beach, versus, let’s say; a swimming pool in Swindon. Before long we were scuba diving: three metres; then five; then eight.
Our first dive was 45 minutes, with Yeri close at hand at all times, and my confidence increasing with every minute, soon I had forgotten all my fears and was immersed in another world.
After a BBQ lunch on the beach, I was ready to go again, with marine biologist, Lisa, as my guide. The Rascal team ready the tender, check the equipment and we are off to our second dive site of the day.
This time I ventured to 11 metres and began to feel completely comfortable in the water. Of course, knowing Lisa was right there and that the tender was directly above helped my confidence levels, but I was a diver. And it was abundantly clear that my long-time love of ski holidays now had a serious rival in my annual calendar.

Learn to dive and learn to cook, Rascal Voyages
You can learn to dive, or not, Rascal Voyages open up a world of possibilities
As the week went on, we discovered yet more beautiful islands, beaches and jungles. Excursions, hikes, dives or snorkel trips are not mandatory. It is perfectly acceptable to stay on board and enjoy Rascal’s wonderful deck areas and relax with a book: this trip can be enjoyed in many ways.
Although, I would suggest the night snorkel/dives and a trip to Shark Island is another must. I also particularly enjoyed the tender excursion up a remote river mouth to then drift back with tubes through deep, indigenous vegetation. Of course, at the end of your swim the Rascal team are there with towels, and drinks, ready to whisk you back to a warm shower in your luxury cabin, before cocktails. No detail is overlooked.

Coral reef conservation, Raja Ampat ©The Sea People
Marine conservation in Raja Ampat, Indonesia
However, this particular trip wasn’t all about us and having fun. The voyage was in fact just the first in a series of planned marine conservation expeditions with The Sea People. This is a wonderful collaboration that shows how much Rascal Voyages cares for the environment it operates in. By hosting the scientists on board, it gives guests direct access to learn about the importance of the coral reefs, and we also had the opportunity to dive into the reef restoration projects and coral gardens that Lynn Lawrance and her small local team are creating.
This first-hand exposure to conservation is very powerful and will no doubt appeal to families who are able to participate in the restoration efforts and then follow the progress of their work online, after the trip.
During our voyage, we saw first hand how The Sea People’s efforts are transforming lives. Cory, a local girl, has become a marine biologist and now leads coral replanting projects. Pete, once an illegal fisherman, is now the head coral gardener for The Sea People. Even Ronny, Rascal’s yacht captain, comes from a family of fishermen and now plays a key role in conservation efforts.
These stories are a testament to the power of slow, deliberate change and the impact of Rascal Voyages’ partnership with The Sea People.

Rebel, Raja Ampat, Indonesia
Learning to dive throws up some very different lessons too
As the voyage continued, I managed to do two more dives. Beneath the waves, and the rhythm of diving – the slow, deliberate breaths – became a lesson in mindfulness.
The more I controlled my breathing, the more I could embrace the moment. It was a reminder to take life at a slower pace – a lesson not only for me but for children and young adults bombarded by the pressures of social media and modern life. I have no doubt I would not have grasped scuba in such a way had I not been a part of the Rascal Experience.

Spacious double cabin, Rebel, Rascal Voyages
Turns out time and space to reflect is the ultimate luxury with Rascal Voyages
The voyage also offered moments of unparalleled luxury, starting with the remoteness and lack of other tourists, as surely space is the ultimate luxury these days. There are no resorts, barely any other yachts and we really only met one other group of tourists in the whole week. Just add to that, a beach picnic on a deserted island, sunset cocktails and dinner under the stars, accompanied by local Indonesian songs, as well as the camaraderie of a crew that felt like family: a team led by Lisa and Yeray whose passion and expertise elevated every aspect of the journey.
This is indeed the epitome of pared-back, barefoot luxury with all guest requirements catered for and considered.

Rascal Voyages, Indonesia
New skills and other important take homes from my diving holiday in Indonesia
For me, this trip represented more than a holiday; it was a lesson in balance, patience, and the beauty of taking life slow. It also gave me the opportunity to see how vastly different parts of the world, and the people who live there, remain. And the ability to engage with nature through dawn boat rides, scuba diving, stargazing, and hiking remote islands, along with the rewarding educational element means you leave a more rounded person with a greater appreciation of how the world is connected.
Rascal Voyages offers something truly unique: a chance for families to switch off, appreciate nature, and contribute to something greater than themselves. For anyone looking to rediscover peace, adventure and purpose, this is the journey you’ve been waiting for. It could also be one of the best investments you make for you and your family, and you might just pick up another hobby that lasts a lifetime.
Plan a Rascal Voyages diving holiday
How to get there
Direct UK flights to Jakarta from 18 hours, 56 minutes Flights Jakarta to Sorong from 4 hours, 5 minutes
Where to stay
Rascal Voyages, Cabin (2 people sharing) from £1,969 per night
Good to know
Rascal Voyages run marine conservation-focused expeditions in Raja Ampat (private charter & cabin voyages). Spaces are still available for next departure 1-6 November 2025