Chill out at the countryside retreat of Shahpura Bagh

For families en route from Udaipur to Jaipur, or coming from the Araveli Cottages and Tented Camp in rural Rajasthan where they can volunteer with local communities, Shahpura is the perfect half way stopping off point. This tranquil town set on the plains is home to the beautiful Shahpura Bagh, a 375-year-old country house retreat, once the summer residence of the Rulers of Shahpura and still owned by the family.

The serene white building with wheat fields out front, transports families back to the days of the Raj, with chintzy meets Indian furniture and old black and white photographs of the maharajas, some featuring dead tigers after a shoot which of course seems shocking to us in more enlightened times. It may be frowned upon but it’s a fascinating insight into the way things were.

All nine bedrooms are vast double height rooms with tinkling coloured glass chandeliers and old-school ensuite bathrooms. Best of all are the vast gardens, now home to one of the most elegant infinity pools you’re likely to discover in Rajasthan with draped pavilions for flopping out in the shade. There’s even an alfresco bar under a block print canopy where you can ring the bell for assistance with a cool drink.

Sundowners at Dhikola Fort

A pre dinner treat is a trip to the family’s Dhikola Fort, a 30-minute drive away. The fort has seen better days but that doesn’t take away from its beauty or intrigue. The government doesn’t pay for any upkeep, so it’s up to the family to invest in the repair of this mighty castle. We’re taken onto the ramparts and invited to take a seat with incredible views over the plains and the village, whilst an elderly gentleman with an impressive rainbow coloured turban and grey mustache serves us drinks as the sun sets.

As darkness descends burning torches are lit across the fort giving it a Lord of the Rings atmosphere with incredible swirling bats. There’s the sound of partying in the village below and at one point all the lights go out. It’s a power cut, such is life here, but the parties continue.

Next morning, after an Alice in Wonderland style breakfast under the trees with fine china and a natty tablecloth, it’s fabulous to stroll around the lake, a verdant wetland which is a sanctuary for wildlife. We spot dozens of peacocks in the forest and out on the lake itself there are herons, cranes, water buffalo, cows and horses. Personally I could have chilled out here for a week or two but Jaipur was calling us!