Zanzibar Serena Hotel is literally fit for a king and also the perfect base for exploring Stone Town as our writer found out on a recent family holiday in Zanzibar.
Zanzibar Serena Hotel, Stone Town
Are you looking for something a bit more exotic for your family holiday this year? Keen to introduce your kids to a little more than the ‘culture’ of the Spanish or Greek islands? Then I would venture a Zanzibar family holiday is a great option.
An island about the size of Greater London, Zanzibar sits just off the coast of mainland Tanzania in the Indian Ocean. It is not straightforward to get there, with no direct flights from the UK. But in about 12 hours you can touch down via either Doha or Nairobi.
Stone Town, Zanzibar family holiday
Stone Town is the must-do on any Zanzibar family holiday
The island is becoming more developed with several resorts popping up along its beautiful coastline. These resorts are great, and I recommend spending most of your time in one or more of them. However, don’t miss the opportunity to spend a couple of nights in Stone Town: Zanzibar City’s old quarter and UNESCO World Heritage Site, renowned for its labyrinthine alleys, bustling markets and historical landmarks.
Zanzibar, and by default Stone Town, has a rich history as a trading hub for Arab and Persian merchants going back to the 11th century. The town as it is today mostly dates back to the 1800s when the Omani Sultans moved their capital here. It was also a British protectorate from 1890 until the 1960s. As befits a town with such a heritage there is a grand dame of a hotel that has hosted international dignitaries from all over the world, including our current King and Queen.
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Pool, Zanzibar Serena Hotel
Zanzibar Serena Hotel is authentically charming and right on the beach
That hotel is the Zanzibar Serena Hotel. Housed across two meticulously restored 18th and 19th century buildings, one originally a Chinese doctor’s house and the other a former telephone exchange, the hotel exudes colonial charm everywhere you turn, with its Swahili-style architecture, high ceilings, and intricately carved woodwork. Also, its prime location provides easy access to the rich history and vibrant life of Stone Town, as well as offering the most stunning ocean views.
One of the hotel’s standout features is its oceanfront swimming pool area, surrounded by lush gardens providing needed shade and offering panoramic views of the Indian Ocean. The pool is perfect for kids and no one seems to mind a bit of splashing around.
If you want to venture onto the beach itself there are steps that lead directly to the generally bustling public beachfront. Here you will start to get the real vibe of Zanzibar life. Yes, there will be ‘Beach Boys’ trying to sell you all manner of tours and trinkets. But don’t let that put you off, they are charming and non-threatening. A polite and firm “No thank you” will usually work. There are almost always groups of kids playing football or showing off with remarkable acrobatic tricks into the water. It’s a feast for the eyes.
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Terrace Seafood Restaurant, Zanzibar Serena Hotel
Dining at Zanzibar Serena Hotel is an experience in itself
Dining at the Zanzibar Serena Hotel is a big deal. They are rightly very proud of the culinary offering which is like a journey through the flavours of the island.
Breakfasts are a celebration in their own right. You don’t want to rush this, as there is a steady flow of options all set in the breezy dining room with ocean views.
For dinner, The Baharia Restaurant serves a variety of international dishes alongside traditional Swahili cuisine. I would recommend trying the local dishes: Zanzibar Lamb Curry, and Zanzibar Kuku – grilled fish in coconut sauce – delicious.
For a more intimate experience, the rooftop Terrace Seafood Restaurant offers fresh-caught seafood with breathtaking views of the bay. I would certainly make sure you book this experience on one evening of your stay.
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Stone Town, Zanzibar
Don’t miss a family tour of historic Stone Town
A short stroll from Zanzibar Serena Hotel leads you into the heart of Stone Town. Whilst it’s perfectly safe to wander around on your own, I would recommend asking the hotel to organise a tour guide, as there is so much to see and learn here that having an expert on hand is well worth it.
When you get into the tight alleyways it has a feel of a mini-Marrakesh with bustling stores and colourful products of all descriptions for sale. Although Stone Town also has its fair share of dark history, relating in particular to the slave trade that operated here in the 1800s. The guides will not shy away from the topic and will typically take you to Darajani Market, the former slave market.
On a lighter note, the daily fish and meat market offers a vibrant and sensory experience, with vendors showcasing the day’s fresh catch in a lively atmosphere. Some of it is not for the fainthearted or stomached, but it’s a real sense of Africa.
No tour of Stone Town is complete without a visit to the one-time home of its most famous former resident, Freddie Mercury. The Queen frontman was born in Zanzibar and lived here until he was eight years old. Albeit a short time, he is still widely celebrated and the Freddy Mercury Museum contains all sorts of memorabilia.
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Prison Island, Zanzibar
Sail to Prison Island to see the Aldabra giant tortoises
Another highlight of our stay was a half-day excursion to Prison Island, also known as Changuu Island. Zanzibar Serena Hotel can organise the tour, or you can take a short walk down the beach and negotiate directly with one of the many local operators. The boat ride out to the island is about 20 minutes.
Whilst the island was indeed built by the British to serve as a prison, in fact it was only ever used as a quarantine station for yellow fever cases. Nowadays it’s home to a sanctuary for Aldabra giant tortoises, some of which are over a century old.
The sanctuary started with only four tortoises gifted by the Governor of The Seychelles. There are now over 100 of varying ages, and it’s an extraordinary experience to get so close to these fascinating creatures.
Before heading back to Stone Town we all jumped into the beautiful surrounding waters for a cool down: all in all, a great excursion for the family.
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Sunset, Zanzibar Serena Hotel, Stone Town
Zanzibar Serena Hotel has the best sunset views in Stone Town
Make sure you are back at the hotel in time for sundowners.
The beachfront location provides a front-row seat to some of the most spectacular sunsets in Zanzibar and the impeccably presented bar staff will oblige you with a generous gin and tonic (or mocktail for the kids) while you soak it all in.
There will be a steady flow of traditional Dhows crossing in front of dramatic red skies, while local kids perform their tumbling tricks on the beach. It is a truly memorable experience.
In summary, I would highly recommend spending two or three nights of your Zanzibar holiday at the Zanzibar Serena Hotel. It is a taste of colonial glamour, impeccable service and wonderful local cuisine all set against the backdrop of the Indian Ocean. It certainly is good enough for a king.
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How to plan this Zanzibar family holiday
How to get there
UK flights to Zanzibar via Nairobi from 11 hours, 50 minutes
Where to stay
Zanzibar Serena Hotel, Executive Suite (2 adults, 1 child) from £287 per night