There are some places that need to be visited at least once, and Clovelly, on the north coast of Devon, is one of them. Natasha Harding gives us the inside story.
Summer, Clovelly Harbour, Devon
The village is frequently known as one of country’s prettiest villages and was once owned by the Queen of England. It can be dated back to the Domesday book and is famed for its cobbled streets and the fact it doesn’t have any vehicular access.
The whole village is owned by John Rous, a direct descendent of Christine Hamlyn who inherited the estate in 1884 and dedicated her life to improving and beautifying the village.
The cottages are let to long-term residents only meaning that there aren’t any Airbnb and second homes, and to live in the village you have to be approved by Mr Rous personally.
For the 250 residents who live on the cobbles, life is full of minor inconveniences but the trade off is living somewhere tranquil – away from thunderous motorways, safe, with a community spirit of a bygone age – with incredible views of the Atlantic.
I moved to Clovelly, which is still a working fishing village in September 2025 with my husband Paul and 12-year-old daughter Lexi – my son, 19-year-old Zak, is at university and an occasional visitor.
Moving day, Clovelly, Devon
A personal insight into Clovelly and why it’s worth paying the entrance fee
We moved in at the beginning of September and it was hard, hard work. At 57 and 51 respectively, Paul and I aren’t spring chickens, and every worldly possession had to be sledged down that hill. So for a fortnight we moved in small pieces of furniture, boxes of clothes and appliances. Then, on moving weekend itself, Paul roped in a friend and the three of us somehow manoeuvred the big things down the cobbles – doing a whopping 40,000 steps in the process.
With over 150,000 visitors a year – and most of them in the spring and summer, Clovelly gets incredibly busy and every time we were wrestling the sledge down the hill loaded with our belongings someone would ask if they could take our photos.
As we immersed ourselves in village life, we discovered how friendly everyone is. Some of the residents have lived there all their lives, although there are many other blow-ins. We haven’t encountered animosity from the long-standing residents and have been welcomed into the village by everyone we’ve met. Most villagers are also happy to chat to tourists about the complexities of living in the village and many villagers have businesses that are reliant on visitors.
Everyone gravitates towards the pretty harbour
There are plenty of children living in the village, and they all have to walk up the hill first thing in the morning to go to school and nursery. Village children very quickly become adept at it, and take great delight in out-walking or running the grown ups!
The harbour, right at the bottom of the village is generally where visitors gravitate to. It’s a wonderful swimming spot and a hotspot for marine life including seals, porpoises and dolphins. I regularly see dolphins when I’m in the kitchen and I have to pinch myself that I live somewhere where that is a regular occurrence.
Cottages and cobbled lanes are the stars in Clovelly, Devon
What to do and see in Clovelly
At the Visitor’s Centre you’ll discover Clovelly Woodturning where Richard, a self-taught woodturner creates beautiful things from local timber. You can see him at work in his studio too, and you’ll be in awe of his creations. Bird feeders are his most popular product and there are also lots of smaller items that children adore, including keyrings.
Recently opened is Hope Studio, a wellness hub which offers yoga and Pilates classes, a treatment space for massage and also a gorgeous shop selling beautiful things.
Once you’ve made your way through the visitor’s centre to the top of the cobbles, you’ll see a variety of shops including Clovelly Soap Company and Clovelly Silk.
The donkey stables are also situated at the top of the cobbles and worth popping into.
Paint your own pot and take it home
Clovelly pottery is full of lovely things to buy and you can also paint a pot and, best of all, take it home with you on the same day.
Lexi and I have visited a couple of times, and spent some lovely hours painting pots and jugs and loving getting our craft on.
The Fisherman’s Cottage and Kingsley Museum located halfway down the cobbles should definitely be visited, not least because it’s home to the fudge and sweet shop.
At the museum, visitors can learn about the history of the village as well as seeing how a Clovelly fisherman and his family lived in the 1930s. There are two inns in the village, The New Inn and The Red Lion, both offer great food and rooms, and are hubs for tourists and villagers.
The Cottage Tea Rooms, a family run business, are open between Easter and October and serve freshly baked scones as well as delicious light lunches. If the weather is good enough, their secret garden offers views of the harbour and beyond.
Sheltered harbour, Clovelly, Devon
Safe harbour swimming is popular in summer
Clovelly is hugely popular with anglers and it’s very rare that there is a night without them in the quay – I didn’t know that night fishing in Devon was such a thing until moving there.
During the warmer months the quay is full of youngsters crabbing and/or jumping off the wall into the sea when the tide is high. It’s also a great place to swim as you are so well protected from those sometimes fierce waves that the Atlantic brings.
If you’ve forgotten your net or bucket, no worries, they’re available to buy at the visitor’s centre and quay shop. The harbour is pretty good for sea glass too and we often go and collect pieces so Lexi can make bracelets and necklaces.
Further along the beach is the Clovelly Waterfall. It’s a lovely photo-opportunity and an ideal place to cool down under on a warm day.
The Clovelly donkeys don’t do any donkey-work these days
The donkeys of Clovelly – Rex, Bert, Ernie and Alfred – are a very popular attraction but, contrary to popular belief, they don’t do any work these days.
Until 1983, donkeys were used to haul heavy loads up the cobbled street but now, although they are regularly walked around the village, their days of service are over and the residents do their own heavy lifting.
Once you’ve exhausted everything that the village has to offer, you’ve got the long walk back up the hill. From Easter to October a Land Rover service operates and, for a fee, you’ll be driven back to the carpark, other than that, you’re on your own.
It’s worth breaking up the walk, by popping into some of the shops on your way back up.
She Sells Seashells is a new addition for 2026 and owned by Sharon King who has lived and worked in the village for almost 40 years. It is full of lovely treasures including toys, games and stationery for children.
The Mermaid’s Purse opened in Easter 2025 and is run by Michael and Woo Ahearne. The shop is a delight and sells original artwork, prints and cards as well as textiles, jewellery and gifts.
The Old Post Office is home to a delicious pasty and ice cream shop and the perfect pit stop for an energy boost before you continue the climb up. I confess, we’ve eaten far too many pasties since moving to the village.
The Hardings at home in Clovelly, Devon
Our cottage turns out to be a minor celebrity
It is strange living somewhere where we are the subject of so much attention.
We live in one of the most photographed cottages in the village and, when it’s busy, every time we open our door, we are greeted by crowds of tourists looking at us and taking photos. When our son Zak visited from university he couldn’t get over the fact that we were the tourist attraction.
Generally people are lovely and intrigued about what it’s like to live there. However, we have bought a private sign for our gate because tourists kept coming into our garden. That said, on Boxing Day, we returned home to find a group queuing on our path to take pictures of themselves with the inflatable Santa that we’d put up for Christmas. Although they were apologetic, they didn’t leave until they had taken their photos.
Lexi and Natasha, Clovelly, Devon
There’s always something going on in Clovelly
Throughout the year, there are regular festivals in this part of Devon, including the Seaweed Festival, Lifeboat Day and the Lobster & Crab Festival.
The annual Christmas light switch on is a big event with as many as 5000 visitors attending the village to see the lights and enjoy the fireworks. Last year’s spectacle was really special – as though we had gone back in time.
Clovelly Court Gardens are located at the top of the village and worth a stop off as you leave. Although small, they’re perfectly formed and with beautiful sea views and a sense of space, you immediately feel relaxed as you walk around. The walled gardens and Victorian greenhouses are home to a variety of fruits and vegetables grown to supply the Red Lion Hotel – you can also buy some and take them home. At Christmas they now hold a glow walk which is a magical experience for all the family.
If you haven’t already visited the little slice of paradise knows as Clovelly, then do so soon, you won’t be disappointed.
Make It Happen
How to get there
Exeter to Clovelly from 1 hour, 36 minutes