A family city break in Edinburgh reveals ‘Auld Reekie’ (as it was once known) to be full of secrets as Jane Anderson found out on a long weekend with her kids.

Victoria Street, Old Town, Edinburgh
Start your family city break in Edinburgh with Old Town charm
Children will feel like they’re in a movie when they amble down curving Victoria Street, no doubt one of the most Instagrammed in the world. Lined with Harry Potter emporiums and atmospheric tartan and whisky shops, it leads into the historic Grassmarket.
Don’t miss W. Armstrongs & Son Vintage laden with kilts, sporrans and Tam-o-Shanters. Kids will love the cool biker jackets and the proper old-school party dresses, some displayed dramatically from the ceiling. Vintage jeans are another win, selling for around £24 a pair. Carry on down through the Grassmarket and try to find the wonderfully named ‘Granny’s Green Steps’ which lead dramatically up to Edinburgh Castle.
If your kids are Harry Potter fans, set yourselves the task of finding Thomas Riddell’s Grave – clue: Greyfriars Kirkyard! Or take them on The Ghost Bus Tour, rather like the Knight Bus.

Scarlett, Calton Hill, Edinburgh © Jane Anderson
Climb up Calton Hill for the best views in town
It won’t take you long to realise that Edinburgh is a city of steep climbs and falls. Its narrow alleyways – known as closes or wynds – along with spectacular stone steps, are a thing of joy if little legs can manage them.
Arthur’s Seat is the biggest hill in town, the top of an extinct volcano no less, but I would advise a more manageable stroll up Calton Hill. At the top, you can wow them with Edinburgh’s Acropolis and Nelson Monument which resembles an upturned telescope. Enjoy epic city views for free, and if you come in late April, book tickets for the Beltane Fire Festival, a Celtic heralding of spring.

Put some Leith into your family city break in Edinburgh
Catch a tram to the Firth of Forth waterfront
The tram now takes you to Leith in style, down the wide boulevard of Leith Walk to the Firth of Forth waterfront with its buzzy shops and restaurants.
A big draw for families is the Royal Yacht Britannia moored regally in the docks. Kids will love discovering five decks of life at sea for both the royal family and the 220 Royal Yachtsmen who served on board, from engine room to state dining room. They can also imagine being captain on the Bridge, and keen eyed ones should look out for all the ship’s clocks: stopped at 3.01pm, the time Queen Elizabeth II was last piped ashore.

View of Edinburgh from Holyrood Park
The big attractions on a family city break in Edinburgh
Two of Edinburgh’s best-loved family attractions sit at the foot of Arthur’s Seat, namely the Palace of Holyrood House and Dynamic Earth.
The former will take you on a royal history tour from Bonnie Prince Charlie up to our current King Charles III, and the latter explores the wonders of the planet and the stars from the aurora borealis to deep ocean life.
Afterwards, kids can let off steam with a run around Holyrood Park.
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Portobello Beach, Edinburgh
Head to Portobello for beaches, fish & chips and bonfires
Who knew that Edinburgh had its very own beach? It’s just a quick ride from the city centre on a number 26 bus to Portobello with its sweeping sands overlooking the Firth of Forth.
After a chilly dip, warm up with salty fish and chips from ShrimpWreck; best eaten outside on the prom’s wooden benches. Follow with ice cream from Oscar’s Gelato.
If you want to have a fire on the beach – very exciting for kids – go to the Esplanade Bar and buy a fire-making kit: kindling, newspaper, logs and firelighters, everything you need to keep you going for an hour or so.
- Arboretum, Edinburgh Botanical Gardens
- Do Dean Village on your Edinburgh city break
Add some flower power to your family city break in Edinburgh
The Royal Botanic Gardens are an oasis in the city and a no-brainer for families. Highlights include the Rock Garden, the Alpine Houses, Woodland Garden, and Scottish Native Plants Collection.
Set your kids the task of finding the prettiest of shell grottos. Most of all, it’s a chilled place to escape the intensity of the city. Come during school holidays for themed children’s trails and activities.

Circus Lane, Stockbridge, Edinburgh
Discover one of Edinburgh’s not-so-secret villages
Dean Village is Edinburgh’s not-so-secret village, filled with pretty shops and cafes, and the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art which has extensive grounds where you can discover local art or make your own.
Carry on walking alongside the scenic Water of Leith to Stockbridge, another homely area with a great Sunday Market open 10am to 4pm. Give in for once and buy some tablet for your kids to try: sugary, buttery and very Scottish.
- Love Crumbs, Edinburgh
- Valvona & Crolla, Edinburgh city break
Where to eat on your family city break in Edinburgh
The Pavilion Café on The Meadows, a beautiful park near Edinburgh University, is a great fit for a family city break in Edinburgh. Weather permitting, sit outside on wicker chairs at vintage tables on the grass and feast on paninis and homemade soup. The view of Arthur’s Seat from here looks just like a mighty sleeping lion. Come in April or May and the cherry trees are in blossom too.
Also in the Old Town, Love Crumbs has quirky interiors and a cosy window nook to climb in and sit on cushions whilst eating your Scottish cheddar on toast.
Italian food is always a winner with kids. Head down Leith Walk to Origano Café & Pizzeria or try Valvona & Crolla with its stunning deli in the front and a hidden restaurant to the rear.

Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh – The Caledonia
Always one of the fanciest family stays in Edinburgh
Affectionately known by locals as ‘The Caley’, the Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh – The Caledonian is an Edinburgh institution.
Formerly a railway hotel, it’s located in prime position at the West End of Princes Street within walking distance of the Old and New Towns and has hosted Presidents, Hollywood actors – sometimes with horses – and rock stars. It’s also known as one of the best places for afternoon tea in the city. Connecting rooms with a castle view are ideal for families.
Plan a family city break in Edinburgh
How to get there
Train from London Kings Cross to Edinburgh Waverley from 4 hours, 30 minutes
Where to stay
The Caledonian Edinburgh, Premier Queen Room (2 adults, 2 children) from £483 per night
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