Hop on the ferry to Vancouver Island and it’s motorhome heaven. Award-winning British travel writer Mike MacEacheran buckles up for a dream road trip with his family from surf beaches and shimmering lakes to black bear safaris.
Vancouver Island and an RV unleashes our spirit of adventure
Beneath the canopy in early evening light, the Douglas firs swaddling Lake Cowichan flickered with streams of amber, gold and orange. We’d stirred enough interest in our two children by promising toasted marshmallows after dinner. Now we were clambering — two steps forward, one step back — through the woodlands to take a dip in Gordon Bay, a natural swimming pool bound by a log boom.
Striped ducks took flight and a bald-topped eagle swooped. In passing, the park warden reminded us of the campground’s black bear rules: exercise caution, never approach or feed them, maintain a clean site. I’m sure we wouldn’t have met one considering the noise my kids were making. Then my wife saw them: two dark eyes peering back through the eerie forest just above a twitching snout. It was a skittish black-tailed deer on the run, not a molar-grinding bear waiting to pounce. But it was also a fleeting insight into how truly untamed Vancouver Island can be. Our walk back to camp was done in double quick time.
That sense of adventure, I suppose, is why we came. I’d been to Vancouver Island in British Columbia before. Heck, I’d even travelled all the way north to almost-off-the-map Port Hardy at its very tip twice. Only I’d never felt it suitable for a family vacation. Jam-packed into a hulking RV rental with a five and two-year-old for 10 days? No thanks.
Those “darn nice” Canadians clinch the deal
But the past two years changed all that. We were looking for somewhere as far away from home as we could afford. A big dollop of open road, mountains, coast, wintergreen forests and wildlife seemed sounded both ideal and Canada’s greatest hits in a nutshell. Then we checked the Pacific Northwest practicalities. Affordable flights to Vancouver? Yes. A scenic ferry ride across the Strait of Georgia to Nanaimo? Check. Several cheap campsites in provincial parks? Highly possible. A fully-fledged food truck scene to save us cooking? Another box ticked. We were sold. Plus, Canadians are just so darn nice, aren’t they?
Vancouver Island: big as Belgium and lots wilder
It was late July, and, truth be told, the first few days were bliss. As big as Belgium, Vancouver Island is fringed by fudge-brown sands that gently-slope into both bracing waves and kid-friendly bays. Even the chilly lakes, waterfalls and inland river pools were blue-green and ripe for throwing ourselves into the water. Hydromania exists in British Columbia and all swimming here is wild.
After Gordon Bay Provincial Park on Lake Cowichan, we motored north past Parksville to Englishman River Falls. These were so-named by the indigenous First Nations after an Englishman who drowned while attempting to forge the rapids. Then it was onwards to Sproat Lake, almost the innermost point of the island.