An inside guide to the most kid-friendly family vacation in Edinburgh

An Edinburgh family vacation reveals ‘Auld Reekie’ (as it was once known) to be full of secrets as Jane Anderson found out on a recent visit to the city with her kids.

Victoria Street, Old Town, Edinburgh

Start your Edinburgh family vacation with Old Town charm

Give your kids a serious main character moment with a wander down curving Victoria Street. It’s one of the most Instagram-able streets in the world, lined with Harry Potter emporiums and atmospheric tartan and whisky stores, and it leads you into the historic Grassmarket area.

Don’t miss W. Armstrongs & Son Vintage laden with kilts, sporrans and Tam-o-Shanter hats. Kids will love the vintage leather biker jackets and retro party dresses: look up to see them dramatically displayed from the ceiling. Classic jeans are another win, selling for around $43 a pair.

Then stroll through the Grassmarket and make it your mission to find the quaintly named ‘Granny’s Green Steps’ which will take you up to mighty Edinburgh Castle.

If your kids are Harry Potter fans, set yourselves the task of finding Thomas Riddell’s Grave (just between you and me, it’s in Greyfriars Cemetery)! Or take them on The Ghost Bus Tour, no coincidence that it’s just like the Knight Bus – J. K. Rowling is a long-time Edinburgh resident! 

Scarlett, Calton Hill, Edinburgh © Jane Anderson

Hike to the top of Calton Hill for incredible Edinburgh views

It won’t take you long to realise that Edinburgh is a city of steep streets and plenty of opportunities to climb. The narrow alleys in the Old Town, known as closes or wynds or even vennels (same word in French, different spelling) along with spectacular stone steps, can be great fun, if you take your time, and most kids will manage them without too much effort.

But the biggest climb in town is Arthur’s Seat: an ancient, extinct volcano no less. It’s a bit of a hike and if you’re short on time, I would advise a more manageable stroll up Calton Hill.

At the top of Calton, you can wow kids with Edinburgh’s Acropolis and Nelson Monument which resembles an upturned telescope. These epic city views are free of charge year round, but if you come in late April, I’d recommending getting tickets for the Beltane Fire Festival, a Celtic tradition which heralds the start of spring and is held every year on Calton Hill.

Don’t miss Leith waterfront on your Edinburgh family vacation

Hop on a tram and head for the waterfront at Leith

If you want to get to Leith in style, take the tram down the wide boulevard of Leith Walk all the way to the Firth of Forth waterfront, the place for lively stores and great independent restaurants.

One of the major attractions on the waterfront is the Royal Yacht Britannia which is permanently moored in the docks. Kids will love exploring the five decks and finding out about life at sea for both the royal family and the 220 Royal Yachtsmen who served here. They can play-act as captain on the Bridge too, and if they’re observant, they’ll notice that all the ship’s clocks are stopped at 3.01pm: the exact time Queen Elizabeth II was last piped ashore.

View of Edinburgh from Holyrood Park

Some of the unmissable attractions on an Edinburgh family vacation

Two of Edinburgh’s favorite family attractions sit at the foot of Arthur’s Seat: the Palace of Holyrood House and Dynamic Earth.

The Palace of Holyrood House gives you an extensive royal history lesson from the legends of Bonnie Prince Charlie up to the present King Charles III.

Dynamic Earth goes much, much, much further back in time and reveals everything from earth’s evolution to the science of the solar system planet and the dark mysteries of ocean life at its deepest.

Then once you’ve had your science and history fix for the day, go have a run around in grassy Holyrood Park: another good spot for views.

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Portobello Beach, Edinburgh

Edinburgh has its own city beach and it’s at Portobello

If you want to add a bit of beach to your Edinburgh family vacation, Portobello on the coast is a short ride from the city centre on a number 26 bus.

Here you’ll find long, wide sands, and Firth of Forth waters that are calm enough for swimming, if you can stand the chilly temperature: this is Scotland after all.

Although if you dare a  freezing plunge, you’ve definitely earned yourself a traditional Scottish seaside treat: fish and chips from ShrimpWreck. This local delicacy tastes best eaten outside on a wooden bench on Portobello Prom, and has to be followed up with an ice cream from Oscar’s Gelato.

However, another way to warm up fast is to build a fire on the beach – big thrill for kids. Simply head to the Esplanade Bar and ask for one of their fire-making kits and you’ll be supplied with everything you need to get cozy on the sands in no time.

Add the Royal Botanic Gardens to your Edinburgh family vacation

The Royal Botanic Gardens are like Edinburgh’s very own, very grand, oasis and they’re wonderful for kids of all ages.

You’ll want to catch the Rock Garden and Alpine Houses for a hint of the city’s Victorian passion for plant collecting.  Although if it’s authenticity you’re after, the Woodland Garden, and Scottish Native Plants Collection could easily steal an hour of your time too.

As well as being one of the most laid-back places to escape the city crowds, the gardens are great fun. Set your kids the task of finding the prettiest shells in the shell grottos for starters, and if you come during the local school holidays you’ll find themed children’s trails and activities on offer most week days.

Circus Lane, Stockbridge, Edinburgh

Lovely Dean Village is one of Edinburgh’s not so well kept secrets

Edinburgh is a city of villages and if you only see one, make it Dean Village. Filled with pretty shops and cafes, it’s also home to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art which has an impressive collection of Scottish and international art, as well as grounds dotted with enormous sculptures by the likes of Henry Moore. Also, the museum is free to visit, like all public museums and galleries in the United Kingdom.

Once you’ve stocked up on culture, continue walking along the Water of Leith to Stockbridge, another village-y area which is worth a look at the weekend for its Sunday Market open 10am to 4pm: a great place to buy traditional Scottish tablet to take home.

The best places to eat on an Edinburgh family vacation

The Pavilion Café on The Meadows, a beautiful park near Edinburgh University, is a great fit for an Edinburgh family vacation. If it’s not raining, or too cold,  sit outside on wicker chairs at vintage tables on the grass and order up paninis and homemade soup. The view of Arthur’s Seat from here is spectacular and if you’re around in April or May you’ll catch the cherry trees in bloom too.

Also in the Old Town, Love Crumbs has quirky interiors and a cosy window seat to climb in and sit on cushions whilst eating your Scottish cheddar on toast.

Edinburgh is big on Italian food, always a winner with kids, so head down Leith Walk to Origano Café & Pizzeria or try famous Valvona & Crolla with its old-fashioned deli out front and tucked away restaurant in the back.

The Caledonian hotel and Edinburgh Castle

Pick The Caledonian for one of Edinburgh’s fanciest stays

Affectionately known by locals as ‘The Caley’, The Caledonian is an Edinburgh institution.

Formerly a railway hotel, it’s located in prime position at the West End of Princes Street within walking distance of the Old and New Towns and has hosted Presidents, Hollywood actors – sometimes with horses – and rock stars.

It’s also known as one of the best places for afternoon tea in the city and connecting rooms with a castle view are ideal for families.

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