Nicknamed La Ville Rose, Toulouse is a mix of grandeur and eccentricity. Here’s why Seonaid McGill thinks it’s also one of the best city getaways in France this summer.
Entertaining evolution, Muséum de Toulouse
Muséum de Toulouse even has a entertaining take on evolution
There might be a bit of sniffiness about Toulouse not being the ‘south-proper’, but summer says it’s properly southern. A hot afternoon in need of some cool shade is the best excuse I can think of to visit the excellent Muséum de Toulouse.
Designed like a cabinet of curiosities, it’s worth dropping by for even an hour, just to see the wall of skeletons. A lot less macabre than it sounds, it’s really a very creative look at evolution and I’ve yet to meet a child who didn’t think the bony horseman and his equally skeletal steed were more funny than sinister.
Place St. Étienne, Toulouse
Shop the quaint and the curious in Quartier Saint Georges
Walk around Toulouse with kids, the city centre is filled with impossibly grand buildings, but it’s really quite compact, mostly pedestrianised and there’s always something to see: look out for the classic, two-storey carousel. And don’t avoid the shops.
Although all the usual suspects are here, as well as a glamorous and slightly snooty Galeries Lafayette, side step them for historic Quartier Saint Georges, and tucked into more of those graceful, red brick buildings, you’ll find the type of specialist shops that France nurtures like small, precious children.
Need a knife to pare a fig? There’s a shop for those. And in the spirit of égalité, antique dealers rub shoulders with treasure-trove hardware shops, where you may think all looks like chaos, yet ask and you shall be given. Don’t ask me how.
Patisserie, Flower’s Café, Place Roger Salengro, Toulouse
The best café in Toulouse for late afternoon refuelling
Round about 4pm, Toulouse stops for gouter, and you should too.
Locals might argue in favour of churros and chocolate to fend off the late afternoon slump. However, as far as we’re concerned the only place to re-fuel is Flower’s Café on Place Roger Salangro.
Don’t be put off by the line, it goes down quickly, and sit outside, always: several little streets converge on the Place and it’s showtime, all the time.
If you aren’t a season purist, Flower’s hot-chocolate, made with pure chocolate, is a local legend. Also, pray their strawberry cheesecake hasn’t run out. One slice is easily big enough for two, or more, and enough to convince kids skipping the churros wasn’t a bad plan at all.
The Minotaur, Les Halles de la Machine, Toulouse © Gwen Bevilan
Meet the Minotaur at Les Halles de la Machine
Riding a Minotaur probably isn’t what you thought you’d do in Toulouse. Wrong. La Halle de la Machine in Montaudran lets you do just that on its enormous steam-punk creations.
Vast elephants and spiders keep company with the tiniest palm-size machines. Time it right, and you can even see the creators at work.
Since you’re in the area, nearby Cité de l’Espace is another type of fantasy aimed at anyone who dreams of walking on the moon. Visit at the weekend for La Cité des Petits where kids can build rockets, man shuttles and romp around in spacesuits.
Guingette Pecheurs de Sable © Toulouse Tourisme
Get into the Guingette tradition on the banks of the Garonne
You can’t miss the River Garonne in Toulouse and the way to enjoy it in summer is at one of the Guingette which pop up along its banks when the weather warms up.
Les Pêcheurs de Sable at la Daurade is a good one with younger kids. Although, older ones might prefer more beanbags and nonchalant Toulousain teens with their lunch. Either way, you haven’t done summer in Toulouse unless you’ve done a riverside Guingette on Quai de la Daurade.
