Nara and Osaka: a tale of two cities and one unforgettable trip

Multimedia artist Sonoko Obuchi explores the ancient wonders of Nara alongside the modern marvels of Osaka – and finds the perfect combined destination for an unforgettable Japan family holiday.

Tōdai-ji Temple, Nara

Blending ancient and modern on our Japan family holiday

This summer, I had the pleasure of taking my children on a family adventure through two of Japan’s most intriguing cities: Nara and Osaka. While many travellers tend to focus on Tokyo or Kyoto, Nara is a surprising gem full of ancient charm, and Osaka offers the perfect blend of modern excitement with a touch of history. My brother and his family joined us on this journey, and together we explored the rich culture, vibrant streets, and unforgettable sights of both cities.

Cleansing with incense before entering the temple

Peaceful Nara: a journey through time

Nara, often overshadowed by its neighbouring cities, offers some of Japan’s most iconic and peaceful experiences. It was the first capital of Japan, and its ancient temples and beautiful parks hold a special place in my heart.

We began our day with a visit to the majestic Tōdai-ji Temple, home to the Great Buddha (Daibutsu). This awe-inspiring bronze statue stands at nearly 15 metres tall, making it one of the largest in Japan. My 16-year-old son was particularly moved by the temple, feeling a deep spiritual connection to the place. I left him to explore the vast hall on his own, giving him the space to reflect in the grandeur of the sacred surroundings. Watching him soak in the atmosphere made me realise just how powerful and peaceful Tōdai-ji is.

The sacred deer of Nara

The sacred deer of Nara Park, and the luxurious dream of Nara Hotel

Afterwards, we strolled through Nara Park, a vast green space known for its free-roaming sacred deer. These gentle creatures are considered messengers of the gods and are an iconic part of Nara’s charm. While these deer are incredibly friendly, I recommend being mindful when children are feeding them, especially when they have a deer biscuit in hand. My niece, just three years old, was overwhelmed as a group of deer gathered around her, hoping for a snack. But despite their eagerness, the deer remained gentle and lovely. I had a magical moment when one bowed to me as I fed it, which I will never forget!

As I have my brother’s family and other relatives in Nara, I haven’t stayed in hotels here yet. However, my dream hotel is Nara Hotel. Nara Hotel is special for its blend of history and luxury. Opened in 1909, it has hosted royalty and celebrities, with its elegant traditional Japanese wooden architecture, combined with subtle Western influences. The rooms offer stunning views of Nara Park and the surrounding mountains.

The wonders of goldfish at Nara Kingyo Museum

We also visited the Nara Kingyo Museum, a must-see for anyone looking for something truly unique. This museum is dedicated entirely to goldfish, and it’s an immersive experience that will leave you spellbound. The museum features many rooms and spaces, each designed by different artists who use light and water to create an enchanting environment. The experience is photogenic in a way that’s similar to TeamLab in Tokyo, but much quieter and more intimate, allowing you to wander through each room at your own pace. The magical atmosphere makes it a perfect spot for reflection and wonder.

Zen and the art of peace at Hasedera Temple

If you have time to explore more of Nara, I highly recommend Hasedera Temple, located over an hour’s train ride from Nara Railway Station. This place is the most Zen space I have ever visited in Japan. While Kyoto can feel overcrowded at times, Hasedera offers complete silence and peace, making it the perfect spot for anyone seeking solitude and authenticity. I keep returning to this serene temple and always leave feeling refreshed and at peace.

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Osaka: a city of contrasts and fun

Just a short train ride away, Osaka is a city where history and modernity coexist in the most exciting ways. While Nara offered peace and reflection, Osaka thrilled us with its energy, entertainment, and unforgettable food scene.

One of the highlights of our time in Osaka was the quirky Shinsekai district, a retro neighbourhood full of charm and nostalgic vibes. Walking through Shinsekai felt like stepping back in time, with its colourful streets, local eateries, and the famous Tsutenkaku Tower dominating the skyline. I picked up a fun Japanese writing T-shirt for my husband (who was back in the UK at the time) from one of the unique shops that dot the area. Shinsekai is full of shops selling quirky goods and humorous gifts, so it’s a great place to pick up souvenirs for family and friends. The whole area has a colourful, cool vibe that’s hard to resist.

Kushi Katsu in Shinsekai

Don’t double dip in Shinsekai on Japan family holidays

In Shinsekai, be sure to try Kushi Katsu, a local delicacy. These are skewered, battered, and deep-fried meat or vegetables, often served with a dipping sauce. There’s something magical about watching the kushi katsu being fried right in front of you, and then dipping it into the special Katsu sauce. But be warned: there’s a famous rule here—“Do not double dip”! Once you’ve dipped your kushi katsu in the sauce, that’s it—you cannot dip it again! It’s a fun tradition that adds to the experience and makes it feel even more authentic.

For a fun family dining experience, we visited Jumbo Tsuribune Tsurikichi Namba, a unique restaurant where you can fish for your own meal. My 12-year-old son was absolutely thrilled by the experience. He managed to catch not one, but two expensive red snappers, and while the bill was hefty, it was such a special moment for him. The joy of catching his own meal and then eating it right away made for a memory we’ll all cherish.

Dotonbori for giant crab statues and the Glico Man on our Japan family holiday

Osaka is also famous for its vibrant Dotonbori district, a neon-lit wonderland where you can see everything from giant crab statues to towering video screens advertising everything from food to fashion. The famous Glico Man sign over the Ebisubashi Bridge is an Osaka landmark, and it’s a must-see for anyone wanting to experience the bright lights and energy of the city. Of course, it’s impossible not to make the same pose as the Glico Man when you get there—it’s a fun and classic photo opportunity!

Walking through Don Quijote Dotonbori, a famous discount store, we discovered quirky souvenirs, Japanese snacks, and even found a Ferris wheel on the front of the building. The Ferris wheel is attached to the building, and you queue up from inside the store, making it a unique experience that’s both fun and unusual. This place is a treasure trove of eccentric finds, and it captures the fun, chaotic spirit of Osaka perfectly. It’s the ultimate one-stop shop for everything from Sanrio goods and Japanese sweets to cool gadgets.

Nifrel Osaka zoo for a uniquely personal experience

We also took some time to visit Nifrel Osaka, an extraordinary zoo and aquarium. From encountering majestic white tigers to seeing crocodiles and exotic fish up close, Nifrel was a highlight for the kids, who were in awe of the wide variety of animals. What makes Nifrel stand out, however, is its design and concept. Unlike any zoo I’ve visited elsewhere, Nifrel provides a unique, immersive experience where you truly feel connected to the animals in a more personal way. It’s a must-visit for families looking for something different.

The spectacular Yodogawa Fireworks Festival: an Osaka highlight

One of the most unforgettable experiences we had in Osaka was attending the Yodogawa Fireworks Festival in early August. The festival is a must-see if you happen to be in the area during the summer, and it exceeded all of our expectations. My 16-year-old son and I both wore Yukata (summer cotton kimonos) to join in the festive spirit, and the atmosphere was electric. We enjoyed classic festival foods like kakigoori (shaved ice) and yakisoba noodles while soaking in the energy around us.

But the highlight of the evening was undoubtedly the fireworks display. The scale and beauty of the fireworks were unlike anything we had ever seen in our lives. The sky was filled with a dazzling array of colours, creating a magical experience that we’ll remember forever. If you’re in Osaka during the summer, be sure to check the timing for this festival – it’s an experience you won’t want to miss!

An easy bed to make the most of a special night

My family and I stayed at Toyoko INN Shinosaka (Chuoguchi Shinkan) for that night. Because it’s within walking distance from the Yodobashi firework festival and Shin Osaka Station, a major hub for Shinkansen (bullet trains). After the event, trains are overcrowded, and the wait to board is long, making public transport impractical. The hotel’s location made it a convenient choice. It’s an affordable, no-frills option, and I appreciate the reliable service at Toyoko Inn locations across Japan.

Nara and Osaka are a perfect pair on Japan family holidays

Both Nara and Osaka are destinations that can be explored at your own pace, with each offering something completely unique. Nara is steeped in ancient beauty and spiritual significance, while Osaka thrills with its vibrant culture, delicious food, and modern attractions. As a family, we found both cities to be perfect for a memorable trip, each offering its own charm and excitement.

Whether you’re admiring the tranquil grandeur of Tōdai-ji, feeding the sacred deer in Nara Park, or exploring the neon-lit streets of Dotonbori, Nara and Osaka are must-visit destinations for anyone wanting to experience the true spirit of Japan on their family holiday. I’m already looking forward to our next visit!

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