Sonoko Obuchi, a Japanese artist based in the UK, returns to her beloved hometown of Fukuoka to enjoy Japan‘s sixth-largest city with her English husband and their two children: here’s what they did.
Fukuoka: where adventure, culture, and delicious food await
Fukuoka, Japan’s vibrant gateway to the Kyushu region, is a hidden gem for families seeking adventure, culture, and delicious cuisine. Born and raised in Fukuoka until I moved to the UK age 18, I take my family back every summer holiday we can – this year, for the month of August.
Tourism has surged in Fukuoka during recent years, partly due to being ranked 14th among the world’s best cities to live in 2017 (Monocle magazine). The past five years have also seen a significant increase in Asian travellers, making Fukuoka a bustling hub with public information and signs in English, Korean, and Chinese. It’s one of the closest Japanese international airports from major Asian cities (1.5 hours from Seoul, 2 hours from Shanghai). No longer just a stopover, Fukuoka now offers a wealth of unique culture, cuisine, and convenience – an ideal recipe for family travellers.
Just 10 minutes by subway from airport to Fukuoka’s city centre
Most international arrivals are into Fukuoka Airport, just a 10-minute subway ride to the city centre – an unparalleled convenience in Japan. We were greeted by a stunning skyline that seamlessly blends modern architecture with traditional shrines. The smooth transition from airport to city was a relief, especially for our children, who were exhausted after a long flight yet excited to return to their second home. And of course, the wonderful hospitality in the warm Fukuoka dialect is always a great welcome.
I love Kochan Ramen, which opens at 8am – perfect for breakfast
Savouring my favourite cuisines in Hakata
The vibrant atmosphere in the Hakata district is palpable, with countless restaurants inviting you to savour local specialties like Tonkotsu Ramen, Mentaiko (pollock roe), and Motsu Nabe (a hot pot dish with offal and vegetables). While these dishes are indeed exceptional, I highly recommend trying the fresh Fukuoka fruits, such as Amaou strawberries, peaches, and Kyoho grapes, known for their incredible flavour.
Our favourite meal this trip was at Chikae Fukuoka in the Daimyo district, renowned for its Mentaiko and an array of seasonal fresh seafood dishes. The taste, atmosphere and hospitality here are among the finest in Fukuoka.
Shopping till we drop in Tenjin and Daimyo
In the Tenjin shopping district, you’ll find everything from trendy clothing to Kawaii (cute) stationery. Most department stores and major shops in Fukuoka offer tax-free shopping for international tourists, making it convenient to claim your tax back on the spot. As someone who lives in the UK, I find Japanese prices to be remarkably affordable. My teenage son, an avid Manga and Anime fan, loved visiting second-hand anime shops like Mandarake and Lashinbang for getting his dream Anime figures and other merchandise.
Daimyo, just a ten-minute walk from Tenjin, is my favourite shopping area, featuring vintage clothing, unique hair salons, and high-end brands like Hysteric Glamour and BAPE. It’s where I spent most of my teenage weekends. If you’re a music lover, don’t miss Border Line Records, where you can discover a fantastic collection of vinyl and CDs at reasonable prices. My son, who owns a record player, was impressed with the vinyl selection and the cool owner who has run the store for 50 years.
Fukuoka stays: from grand hotels to affordable Airbnbs
We have tried many different hotels and private rentals during our stays in Fukuoka, and one hotel we really enjoyed is the Grand Hyatt Fukuoka, as it was such an ideal base for our family holiday. Located within the exclusive shopping and entertainment complex Canal City Hakata, it’s a one-stop destination for dining and activities, making everything easy for our family.
My children love Canal City shops like JUMP Store, Donguri Republic (Studio Ghibli store), and Alpen Fukuoka. Canal City is also renowned for its seasonal free events and stunning fountain shows which you can enjoy from the famous Bar Fizz in the hotel. The Grand Hyatt is also only a 10-minute walk from Tenjin and Hakata train station, so convenient for exploring the city.
We’ve also enjoyed our times staying in Airbnbs in the Hakata district, where we’ve found wonderful family-friendly apartments and hosts who speak fluent English.
Vibrant Fukuoka nights in Nakasu & Naka River
As night falls, Nakasu comes alive with a vibrant mix of flavours and sights, and I highly recommend it for an evening activity in Fukuoka. The famous Yatai (open air food stalls) line the streets, inviting you to enjoy delicious bowls of Tonkotsu ramen and Yaki Tori (grilled chicken skewers) under the warm glow of lanterns. The Naka River adds to Nakasu’s charm, with shimmering lights reflecting on the water. Whether you choose a boat ride or a leisurely walk, the views are stunning. While some areas of Nakasu are known as the red-light district, I find it safe to walk with my family.
Cultural experiences to cherish in Fukuoka
One of the highlights of our trip was visiting Ohori Park, where we enjoyed a leisurely afternoon walking around the serene pond. We used to take swan boat rides when our children were younger, and the playground is a hit. Nearby, the Fukuoka Art Museum showcases modern and contemporary art, featuring Yayoi Kusama’s iconic yellow dotted pumpkin sculpture outside. If you visit in late March to mid-April, don’t miss Maizuru Park, adjacent to Ohori Park, for its stunning cherry blossoms during the annual Fukuoka Castle Sakura Festival—an ideal family outing.
Easy fun day trips to Dazaifu and Itoshima
No visit to Fukuoka is complete without a half-day trip to Dazaifu, just a short train ride away. Here, we marvelled at the historic Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine and explored the charming streets lined with shops selling traditional snacks and souvenirs. Be sure to try my favourite sweet, Umegae Mochi, best enjoyed hot.
If you have a full day to spare, consider visiting Itoshima, a beautiful seaside area about an hour from Fukuoka city centre. With its stunning nature, a famous waterfall called Shiraito and coastline, it’s best to hire a car, but we took a train followed by a 30-minute taxi ride from Chikuzen-Maebaru station. Keya Beach was the highlight, offering calm waters and soft sand—perfect for families. I only wish we could have stayed longer!
Farewell to a Fukuoka which gave us everything we needed
Our family holiday in Fukuoka exceeded all expectations, combining delicious food, rich culture, and warm hospitality. I’m proud to be from this incredible city and to create new memories with my family. Whether you’re exploring bustling shopping districts, enjoying serene parks, or indulging in ramen from morning to midnight, Fukuoka is a city that welcomes families with open arms. We can’t wait to return!
Want to plan this Fukuoka holiday? Here’s some useful links:
Interested in Sonoko’s work? Check out her website